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Sarah.B
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Sarah.B is offline  
Location: Hove, East Sussex, UK
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
Female 
 
30-06-2008, 02:31 PM
We had a greyhound who didn't like the dogwalk at all in our classes so we lured her over with treats. If she looked like she was starting to become uncomfortable with it then a treat went down to distract her. I have just got home from our classes this morning and she went over just fine. If anyhting the owner couldn't keep up with her coming down lolol. Another idea maybe someone could hold the toy or treats at the other end to take her mind of what she is doing and give her something else to focus on.
With the seasaw I would prob go back to having someone stand near the dropping end and take the weight of it so that your dog isn't doing the tilt so much on their own. Introduce the "steady" as it starts to tip.
With both pieces of equipment take a step backwards and lift them on nearer to the end as well so they are almost relearning the contacts. With the seasaw use the dropped end that is already on the floor.
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rachelsetters
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Location: East Sussex, UK
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,384
Female 
 
01-07-2008, 07:57 AM
Originally Posted by DanishPastry View Post
Have a handful of treats ready for when you get to the dogwalk, lure him to put both front feet up, give a treat, lure him a bit further, treat etc etc.. Try not to hold on to his collar at all, it is much better that he makes the decission himself, to step up there, helped by the bribe of something nice.
If you only treat him when he has completed the dogwalk, you are effectively treating him for getting OFF it, not on
Originally Posted by CLMG View Post
We had a very similar problem with Jack, he got frightened on the see-saw, and was then afraid of the dog walk, apart from big, huge over the top praise, Chris used to sit Jack near, but not in the way of the dog walk and see-saw so he could watch the other dogs go over it without problems, and he soon got back on the dog walk, but the see-saw was a different matter, it's taken him about a year or more to be confident on it, at one stage it took 5 minutes of gentle persuasion to get him over it, both Chris and his trainer had treats, and his trainer (who he adores) put her arm round him and gave him tum ticks and every step was rewarded with big praise and tit bits, now he's absolutly fine with it never give up, I'm sure Max will get it eventually. How high is the dog walk, at our training club they have a lower one about 3ft of the ground for training the new dog on, maybe he's not to sure of the hight of it, just a thought Good luck
Originally Posted by Agility-mongrel View Post
When the see-saw is introduced, the dog will expect the dog walk to vanish from under him, until he learns to differentiate between the two! Dan was petrified of the see saw after he took it too fast and it disappeared from under him. I had to use treats by putting them at a position where when the dog stops to eat the treat, he is on the point that makes it tip, associationg the tipping with a treat and also training him to stop at that tip point. We always use a different word for the see saw and dog walk and 2 years on, he hasn't learnt to differentiate between the two. It helps if you have the equipment at home too!
Originally Posted by Sarah.B View Post
We had a greyhound who didn't like the dogwalk at all in our classes so we lured her over with treats. If she looked like she was starting to become uncomfortable with it then a treat went down to distract her. I have just got home from our classes this morning and she went over just fine. If anyhting the owner couldn't keep up with her coming down lolol. Another idea maybe someone could hold the toy or treats at the other end to take her mind of what she is doing and give her something else to focus on.
With the seasaw I would prob go back to having someone stand near the dropping end and take the weight of it so that your dog isn't doing the tilt so much on their own. Introduce the "steady" as it starts to tip.
With both pieces of equipment take a step backwards and lift them on nearer to the end as well so they are almost relearning the contacts. With the seasaw use the dropped end that is already on the floor.
Just to update everyone that we are making progress and last night really saw him much more positive.

Think the biggest thing was for me to stop leading him on and encouraging him to make the decision and then rewarding Max for making that decision - I worked quietly on the dog walk before we started literally using praise and treats for getting on and going up - as I said he was fine was he was up the first bit.

Now I just encourage on as before and he is making the decision without me holding his collar and just followng my hand up - same with the see-saw. Last night he got on both with the commands only and huge praise once on - a steady on the see-saw (which is still being held on the drop). Am really pleased.

So thank you all for your tips - they really helped

For the first time last night I even thought maybe we will compete later this year! As his weaves also came on loads last night too - didn't miss a single one - mind you we did them so many times as we learnt the course backwards this week!

THANKS ALL!
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fluffybunnyfeet
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Location: torquay devon
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 360
Male 
 
03-07-2008, 12:23 PM
I have always thought, having observed some dogs reactions to the seesaw, that it would be better if a training seesaw had some sort of shock absorber attached to the pivot to slow the action down so it doesn't come crashing down at speed as it tends to unnerve some dogs and causes them to jump off before reaching the contact point.
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jackpat
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Location: northampton
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Female 
 
11-07-2008, 01:44 PM
Our agility instructor starts seesaw training with the falling end on a table so it doesn't move very far. Then slowly the table gets lower, until they are used to it falling.
It seems to work for Jack
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