if you are losing patience - do not train

Sorry to disagree and to go slightly off topic but for the benefit of any new dog owner reading this , if you are losing patience it is best to stop any training and leave it until another day rather than to do something which could cause more problems with your dog later.

I have observed many litters and yes a dam will carry a puppy by the neck in order to move it around from place to place and will growl and show her teeth to show disapproval but shaking puppies? If a dam did this I would consider she did not have a suitable temperament to be bred from. Shaking and pinning puppies suppresses their natural defensive responses and can lead to aggression.

I'd reckon a 40kg dobe shook her puppies she'd probably break thier necks and kill them in the process?

Keep going with the treats, if necessary start by giving her a treat simply for standing in the right position - then move the next treat a bit ahead and she should follow.

You can also NOT give her a meal but instead use the kibble as the treats to get her to follow. Yes, it's a bit harsh to keep her hungry but it might just get her following for the food.

RE head collars: as has been mentioned, never ever 'yank' the lead or pull it sharply when your dog has any head collar on.


And yes - I find also that a double-ended lead works really well! Clip one end to a collar, one end to the Dogmatic and you will have sooo much more control, you'll be amazed.

Then, when it's easier to keep her calm using the Dogmatic, walk her bit by bit past other dogs at a distance - keep the lead relaxed or she'll respond to your tension. It's hard but it really works!


Re collars: have you tried a collar that is part check, part nylon?

Again, I find this really helps.

Do try and find an experienced trainer - your dog sounds a lot like mine and the trainer has helped enormously.

Sincere thanx to all of you who have responded to my problem. I have read through all your replies and have taken everything on board, and will be trying your suggestions out in the next few days.
The basic problem with Tia is that we had no history about her from the rescue centre, only that her owners had lost their home. She will not pee or poo in the garden, possibly because she lived in a flat previously and every walk is a comfort break for her. My husband and I between us walk her 5 times a day, first walk is 5.30am (in the dark) no time for training. 2nd walk about 8.00am is a joint one of about 2/3 miles (this is the one where we try to combine training). 3rd walk is around 1.30pm, again combined with training. 4th walk is about 5.30/6.00pm (in the dark) and is a comfort break. Last walk is at 9.00pm (in the dark) and is her final bedtime walk. Perhaps we're doing something wrong but we love her dearly, especially as she's so good indoors, and we will be trying all of your suggestions and the links you've provided in the next week or two. Watch this space. Thanx again

Hopefully you will see a difference but remember that it takes time, you wont see a huge difference over a couple of days/weekend, time, consistency and patience are key. Try to stop worrying about what caused this through not knowing her background, just think about how to move forwards using positive methods and 'get to know her' and itll start to improve

Edit - you might want to look up some turidd rugass videos online, they may be helpful

Try this:

http://www.dogtrainandbehaveweek.com...gchallenge.php

it's a really good guide, check out the different weeks, and types of pulling etc also equipment.

And the important of starting before you go out the door

Also check out the Dogs Trust training videos with Carolyn Menteith

Loose lead walking is (I believe) one of the most difficult things we need to teachour dogs. It takes patience and time, there is no getting away from this.

I recommend a stop pulling harness for getting from A to B when there is no time to train, and an ordinarly flat collar and lead when actually training.

Try to do some LLW training for a few minnutes every day.

Wys
x

My dog is also a rescue - and we know nothing about his past. He was dumped in the pound with not even a collar on.

Re Harnesses:

There are a few anti-pull ones that are good. The Kumfi Complete Control Harness, kindly recommended by DOBERMANN is worth trying.

I've also heard good things about the Walkezee.

I've tried various harnesses and to be honest, none have helped with the lunging.

If you want to stay calm and relaxed on your walks, and thus help your dog to be calm, then a head collar is the only thing that in my experience gives you total control over your dog.

Same as a horse and bridle - if you control the head, you control the body.

But again - be really careful never to jerk or yank the lead.

Re Flexi Lead

I'd advise ditching this for now. It will not help you solve the problems of your dog lunging and pulling.

I use a leather, double-ended lead, think the brand is Ferplast. It's great and really helps.


Do you have tennis courts in your local park?

If yes - pick a time when they are likely to be empty and take your dog into one, of course ensuring the door is securely shut

Let her off the lead and, using treats, get her used to walking to heel without the lead.

Keep your voice calm but enthusiastic, pat your thigh, jingle a toy - anything that makes you interesting.

Hope this helps

http://www.dogmatic.org.uk/

- try the padded/cushioned one

Agree. It's not fair on the dogs and it shows a lack of skill in the trainer who is losing their patience.

Better to put dogs away and go and have a cup of tea and some choccie

I have a feeling this particular challenge is either sponsored by or a marketing ploy of HALTI.......the least favoured headcollar by quite some way it seems. I'd try a lot of alternatives mentioned in the thread before stumbling down this dark path. Careful being convinced that head collars are your 'only' option though, they're neither as safe or effective as some may have you believe.

regards,

Austin