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Borderdawn
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30-01-2009, 08:30 PM
Originally Posted by Minihaha View Post
Dawn working with an aggressive dog to understand and improve its behaviour and taking a dog in to board in a kennel are two different things ,you can't hope to do a lot with an aggressive dog which has been left to board with you for just a few days, (although as you are a fan of the methods used by CM you could try jabbing your finger at it/kicking it with your foot/choking it/alpha rolling it and see what happens).

I would refuse to take aggressive dogs to board and would make it clear to the owners that if a dog proved to be aggressive and needed medical attention they would be charged accordingly.

It is also possible in a kennel situation to make provision for an unexpectedly aggressive dog by having a kennel with a double gate arrangement which allows a dog to go from the kennel into an enclosure so that you can enter the kennel to clean it and the dog can get some exercise without you having to actually be in with the dog.
Hi Mini.
PLEASE explain to me how you can tell a dog will attack you once its owners have left? Most dogs are fine upon arrival when the owners are present, but some change completely when those owners are not present. Id LOVE to know how to know that beforehand, being the subject of aggressive dogs is not my favourite passtime!

Please also explain to me how you can administer meds to a dog that wants to attack you and isnt interested in food? Lets just say the dog comes out for you, we have 2 secure exercise areas, a field and a concrete area. How would you get a dog back into its kennel when if you step towards it, or even try to go through the gate it tries to attack and bite you. Or, do you think its acceptable to keep a dog confined to a kennel and run throughout its entire stay because it cant be handled at all? Again, think about the meds issue, and the fact that it could need to see a Vet, this is not uncommon in boarding.
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Meg
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30-01-2009, 11:57 PM
Dawn I fail to see what point you are trying to make here,
and can you explain to me if CMs methods are so wonderful and as instantly successful as his 'followers' believe why aren't you using them?

Id like to see the long drawn out techniques that many spout about work on a dog in kennels intent on attacking you
No of course positive reinforcement methods are not going to work instantly on a dog you may know very little about which has come to a boarding kennels for a few days.

Do you really think CM goes to handle any dog without first finding out something about it and getting some idea of the reason for the aggression, do you really think every bit of time he spends with a dog is shown and none of it edited and the whole treatment of one dog last half an hour ?


If it is such a problem to you and you can't manage the dogs you board maybe you should take some lessons in how to cope with aggressive dogs, learn to read a dogs body language, perhaps you come across to the dogs as a threat and and full of aggression.


The owners of the dogs you board should have some idea if their dogs are aggressive to strangers. I would have thought you would have made it clear to owners that you don't accept aggressive dogs, those that are not used to being handled. Also make it clear to them that should the dog become aggressive and in need medical care you are not able to handle them and may find it necessary to get a vet to sedate the dog in order to administer the medication.


I would not want to approach a human aggressive dog until I had learnt a little about its background, and I would want to observe it closely and try to gain its trust before trying to handle it.

Added Please see post number 67
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Ben Mcfuzzylugs
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31-01-2009, 12:29 AM
Originally Posted by Shona View Post
good post dawn.



I think its one thing saying something and another in the doing,

If you like ben I could have you come down and watch/help if you feel like it, when I get the next true Bas**** of a dog to work with.
Please dont feel like thats an insult, its a genuine offer
I would love to come over sometime and see. You have offered lots of good advice to people on here and really seem to know your stuff so I would love to see you in action. I may not agree with every word anyone says but I believe there is something to be learnt from everyone - and I know you dont use totaly CM methods

Originally Posted by Shona View Post
omg, I thought that was a bit of a mith, now that I draw the line at you wont get me humping any dog
I know, I did believe the stairing thing for a wee while (I was young) but even I could see the humping was just daft
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Wysiwyg
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31-01-2009, 09:21 AM
deleted, not worded very well!
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madmare
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31-01-2009, 09:23 AM
I've only worked with Shady and she is fear aggresive to other dogs and traffic and children.
Mistake I made was trying to make her face her fears, by sitting at a roadside hopefully till she got bored and ignored the traffic. All I succeeded in doing was making her more fearful and worse.
So I removed her for a few weeks from going near traffic then started her on quieter roads with wide paths and grass verges between her and the traffic. Slowly staying in her comfort zone she got better and better . Now we have got to the stage where she will happily walk round the buisness park where there are lots of lorries and vans, still a grass verge between them and us and even in the wet when they make that swishy noise with no reaction. She ignores cars and vans on normal roads although still can't tolerate buses or motorbikes. I do find though in a strange place along the road she gets very tense but at least I can now get her down a road. She has improved massivly.
Dogs she does not know she can't stand approaching her she thinks they will attack her. So I have spent time trying to make sure she only has positive experiences and she is now happy and relaxed off lead with a few dogs. One negative experience of a dog rushing up to her though sets me back months, but slowly we are getting there and improving a bit.
Children I just avoid like the plague with her and plan our walks where there won't be any. I won't take any risks with children as she is is very big powerful dog.
All dogs are different in the way they need to be helped but I have found with Shady you can't force her to face her fears its a long slow process of keeping her in her comfort zone so she can gradually gain confidence in things.
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Meg
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31-01-2009, 09:33 AM
Originally Posted by Borderdawn
Id like to see the long drawn out techniques that many spout about work on a dog in kennels intent on attacking you, when you MUST get the dog out to exercise it and clean the kennel, and some you must administer meds to aswell!!
Here you go Dawn
Originally Posted by Ace_Animals View Post
I was involved with during my time as Head Kennel Assistant at a Boarding Kennels. (Like someone has said before me - sorry, forgotten who - when dogs are boarded with you, sometimes their owners aren't even aware of their dogs bad habits when left in boarding kennels but they still have to be cleaned out, exercised, etc. so there is no getting around the fact they need to be handled). Equally, as my time as a Head Kennel Assistant at this particular boarding kennels, I had two 14 month old Rottweilers to contend with. It was their first trip to boarding kennels and they were a little apprehensive (although didn't show it to the unsuspecting eye). They were good as gold when they were dropped off. Then by the time their owner had left the carpark they turned into barking, snarling, frothing at the mouth, large, chunky dogs who actually sent two people running out of reception area at the time (two other clients who had come to pick up their dogs).

Again, these had to be handled and dealt with. Typically, my bosses were going away on holiday themselves the day after these Rotties had been dropped off and as I was the only other worker there at that time it was muggins here who was left to deal with them My boss did warn me to be careful and "worse case scenario" to let them out in a large run area, that way I'd not have to actually take them for a walk if they weren't friendly by this point.

It took about 4 days (of them lunging at me, snarling, frothing at the mouth, etc) before one day they both stopped and became best of buddies with me. What did I do? I simply spent the previous 4 days attempting to not show any fear or be remotely bothered by their "threatening" behaviour. Of course, deep down inside, I was a bit apprehensive as, at the time, I'd not really done much behavioural work and I certainly wasn't trained to handle aggressive dogs at all. I just had to do what came naturally. The fact that I was working alone with these two dogs (and I'm only ickle myself - these dogs towered over me when they were lunging at me), naturally put me a little at unease but I didn't show it to them (that I know of ) Patience won out in the end. The owner was amazed to hear the tale about how they'd behaved for 4 days when they came back from their hols and saw the dogs all over me (in a friendly manner)

No two breeds are the same either. Toy breeds can be handled differently to extra large breeds. For example, if I ever even contemplated doing an "alpha roll" on a Rottie then I'd inevitably come off worse because I'm only a mere 5 foot 3 and a bit in height and don't weigh much So, although I adore the "Dog Whisperer" programmes and truly admire CM, I've never done an "alpha roll" myself.
..it seems even a CM fan finds taking time/your body language (and I would say getting to know the dog and observing it ) and patience can work too. Getting a dog to be calm and coperative doesn't have to involve prodding/kicking/cutting off a dogs air supply, it isn't all about heavy handed techniques and quick fixes .
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Wysiwyg
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31-01-2009, 09:48 AM
Originally Posted by CheekyChihuahua View Post
I just don't feel that clicker training (as well as some other 'positive' training methods) work for ALL dogs. Certainly wouldn't work for my lot
Out of interest, why do you think it wouldn't work on your lot? It works on any animal that is alive and can learn, as far as I know. Including fish!! LOL.

Whether or not the owner wants to use it is another matter and up to them of course

They use it in zoos now not just for enrichment but to help with animal husbandry such as safely injecting willing hyenas who offer themselves for the injection! Taking urine samples from dangerous animals! checking the teeth of dangerous animals!

I don't use it all the time but it can come in very useful for behaviour moderation and many top behaviourists and trainers use it now:

Have you seen this video? Tucker nail trim, his owner tried a lot of dominance techniques and clicker training helped him and his owner very fast where the other techniques made things worse:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=bgEwiH8CeUE

Good stuff, surely?
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Borderdawn
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31-01-2009, 09:54 AM
Originally Posted by Minihaha View Post
Here you go Dawn

..it seems even a CM fan finds taking time/your body language (and I would say getting to know the dog and observing it ) and patience can work too. Getting a dog to be calm and coperative doesn't have to involve prodding/kicking/cutting off a dogs air supply, it isn't all about heavy handed techniques and quick fixes .
Mini please dont imply I dont get to know the dogs I board, how dare you! Id still like an answer to my question, considering this is a thread to do with people that have worked with aggressive dogs, can you please answer my questions on how you would deal with the situations I explained and act in the best interest of the dog!
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Wysiwyg
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31-01-2009, 09:56 AM
Originally Posted by ClaireandDaisy View Post
My Shamus the shorthair goes rigid and gives blood-curdling growls when worried. I`m sure if I pushed it he would bite from sheer terror. After a year he`ll let me do most things with him - although he sometimes panics. I`ve had to educate my sons and various visitors into not making eye contact when he gets worried, and when he gets growly to ignore him. I do `challenge` him sometimes by leaving my hand where it is (and looking away) when he starts to get the terrors about me stroking him. I wait till he goes quiet and if he remains tense I just move away but if he relaxes I tell him he`s a good boy.
It`s difficult because I don`t want to `reward` the growls but on the other hand He needs to go at his own pace in learning that I can be trusted.
We are getting there - he let me rub his tummy last week.
I`ve tried food but he freezes when he`s scared and won`t accept it.
Does anyone else have a fear-aggressive dog? What did you do?
It's hard isn't it?
I'd say it depends on the history etc but a biggie for me is building up trust, never forcing and also being proactive and putting in place some programme of systematic desensitisation and counterconditioning; considering use of helpful herbal or other medicines, DAP etc plus if it was really very bad maybe medication, but only with the view to short term use and along with behavioural work also.
I'd tend to keep the dog "below threshold" - a lot depends on the environment etc doesn't it...
Also a thorough vet check to ensure there is no medical cause (eg hypothyroid) for the problem.
Just the building up of trust can make a big difference in handling etc....wishing you luck
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Wysiwyg
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31-01-2009, 10:00 AM
Originally Posted by Ben Mcfuzzylugs View Post
I rem when I was a kid there was a short lived method where to show you were the dom to the dog you had to stare them down till they broke eye contact with you then you had to mount the back of the dog like you were humping it I still rem the foto on the tv of this lady astride a rather startled looking golden retrever
OMG
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