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Wysiwyg
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15-11-2010, 10:19 AM
Originally Posted by Brierley View Post
The terrible thing is that there are many, many more accounts like this. Some ending with the dog being put through unnecessary suffering, some culminating in the death of a dog so traumatised by its experiences that the owner feels there is no other choice.

Ask any trainer who has seen the fall-out from the damned things and they will all say the same - ban them!!!!
Yes, exactly.

Wys
x
Lucky Star
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15-11-2010, 10:40 AM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
Basically you call, press, guide the dog towards you and stop pressing.

You can also use a tap tap method on the button instead of the pressing, the effects are similar.

At most the dog will experience discomfort for 1-1.5 secs. Unlike the extended frustration/discomfort that luring with a treat creates.

Adam
What extended frustration/discomfort? I don't know about you but when I do treat training, we have fun and play games - e.g. search and find and he loves it! I don't put my dog in a situation where he will fail and the treats are withheld and we always finish on a high note. Some things can be taught in small sections so the dog is always rewarded for something because he already knows some of what is required - it's then just a case of putting it all together. You can also train with treats just by taking notice of the dog and rewarding/encouraging desired behaviour as you see it happen naturally, like 'sit'.
wilbar
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15-11-2010, 10:46 AM
Originally Posted by Lucky Star View Post
What extended frustration/discomfort? I don't know about you but when I do treat training, we have fun and play games - e.g. search and find and he loves it! I don't put my dog in a situation where he will fail and the treats are withheld and we always finish on a high note. Some things can be taught in small sections so the dog is always rewarded for something because he already knows some of what is required - it's then just a case of putting it all together. You can also train with treats just by taking notice of the dog and rewarding/encouraging desired behaviour as you see it happen naturally, like 'sit'.
Completely agree. And I've said so to Adam in the past ~ if you're causing frustration/confusion/discomfort to your dog by using what you think is postive reinforcement, then you're not using positive reinforcement!

And this is why I don't think Adam understands learning theory. He can quote the "bare bones" of operant conditioning, but that's it. And as for using it correctly, well, no way!
Delos
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15-11-2010, 11:47 AM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
Basically you call, press, guide the dog towards you and stop pressing.

You can also use a tap tap method on the button instead of the pressing, the effects are similar.

At most the dog will experience discomfort for 1-1.5 secs. Unlike the extended frustration/discomfort that luring with a treat creates.

Adam
I'm sorry Adam your making yourself look very silly now. It shows what little understanding you actually have of dog training and Positive reinforcement. As others have said if you make your dog frustrated your not doing it correctly.
Adam P
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15-11-2010, 01:12 PM
If the dog is motivated mainly by treat/toy then even if you praise all the way back to you the dog is still experienceing frustration on the return because that treat/toy is offered but not yet given. Of course it looks nice because the frustration makes the dog run really fast to get back and get the treat/toy.
Of course you can start off with the dog two steps away from you and instant reward, but as you extend the distance the frustration re occurs.

Re e fences, the stock type fences tend not to work on dogs as they have a thick coat and tend to run under the rope just brushing it with the hair, this prevents them getting a stim.
Also because dogs dive through them if they experience the stim they're already half way through so just keep going.
Cattle sheep ect tend to touch these fences with the nose first (to investigate them) this gives them a stim and conditions them to avoid the fence.
Invisible dog fences have a much wider range 2 metres sometimes, so the dog has less chance of running through them and because you condition the dog to turn back from the beep ec the dog learns not to try the fence out!
I tend to recomend the invisible fence is used as a back up to a solid boundary though. Often they are useful for dogs that dig, climb, bite through ect.

When training the recall you start with the dog on lead! So as soon as you press/call you guide the dog back. The dog has no chance to learn to move away!

Adam
Tupacs2legs
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15-11-2010, 01:21 PM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
If the dog is motivated mainly by treat/toy then even if you praise all the way back to you the dog is still experienceing frustration on the return because that treat/toy is offered but not yet given. Of course it looks nice because the frustration makes the dog run really fast to get back and get the treat/toy.
Of course you can start off with the dog two steps away from you and instant reward, but as you extend the distance the frustration re occurs.


Re e fences, the stock type fences tend not to work on dogs as they have a thick coat and tend to run under the rope just brushing it with the hair, this prevents them getting a stim.
Also because dogs dive through them if they experience the stim they're already half way through so just keep going.
Cattle sheep ect tend to touch these fences with the nose first (to investigate them) this gives them a stim and conditions them to avoid the fence.
Invisible dog fences have a much wider range 2 metres sometimes, so the dog has less chance of running through them and because you condition the dog to turn back from the beep ec the dog learns not to try the fence out!
I tend to recomend the invisible fence is used as a back up to a solid boundary though. Often they are useful for dogs that dig, climb, bite through ect.

When training the recall you start with the dog on lead! So as soon as you press/call you guide the dog back. The dog has no chance to learn to move away!

Adam
omg u for real

anticipation versus pain... and you go for the pain cos u think its kinder to the dog your 'excuses' are getting weaker adam.
Laura-Anne
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15-11-2010, 01:23 PM
How many of the dogs you recall using your method come back with a wagging tail? I wouldnt be surprised if Totts propels herself from her tail it wags so ferociously when i call her.

My two enjoy training. They know when theyre going to training, they get excited...or would that be frustrated in your eyes.

One of my dogs wasnt even food orientated. I trained her to be. Any dog can succeed through positive training.
SLB
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15-11-2010, 01:29 PM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
If the dog is motivated mainly by treat/toy then even if you praise all the way back to you the dog is still experienceing frustration on the return because that treat/toy is offered but not yet given. Of course it looks nice because the frustration makes the dog run really fast to get back and get the treat/toy.
Of course you can start off with the dog two steps away from you and instant reward, but as you extend the distance the frustration re occurs.

WHAT? are you dillusional - thats not how the dog thinks? and if you have a treat and a toy you give them to the dog - duh! My dogs love coming back to me because they get a ball or a treat - in fact fetch is all about retrieving - wait maybe it's just frustration - maybe all these hunting game with their dogs are doing it all wrong.

Re e fences, the stock type fences tend not to work on dogs as they have a thick coat and tend to run under the rope just brushing it with the hair, this prevents them getting a stim.
Also because dogs dive through them if they experience the stim they're already half way through so just keep going.
Cattle sheep ect tend to touch these fences with the nose first (to investigate them) this gives them a stim and conditions them to avoid the fence.
Invisible dog fences have a much wider range 2 metres sometimes, so the dog has less chance of running through them and because you condition the dog to turn back from the beep ec the dog learns not to try the fence out!
I tend to recomend the invisible fence is used as a back up to a solid boundary though. Often they are useful for dogs that dig, climb, bite through ect.


Dogs and other animals including livestock and even bears can sense the eletric currents - it's got nothing to do with the stim - do your research - not the bit you've read on the back of an instrution booklet

When training the recall you start with the dog on lead! So as soon as you press/call you guide the dog back. The dog has no chance to learn to move away!

So why cant you guide the dog back using a treat instead of a constant stream of pain? how is the dog ever going to like recall - your Jacca daren't even move away from you because you've zapped him so much! He doesnt enjoy being off lead - even my mother noticed that when I asked her to watch your attempts at dog training and she knows nothing about dog training!
Adam
You know a decent trainer wouldnt need to argue his/her case, they would trust in their tools and methods and ignore those who comment on it, you're doing a poor job of arguing your case, you know nothing about alternative ways of training and you know BOB all about dogs - except how to press the button on your little remote and send a stream of pain into them, you have no reguard for the law as you had three dogs off lead, close to sheep and as far as I'm concerned you are a rubbish trainer - and I wouldnt even class you as a trainer - you're just one of those people who go round saying - "I can fix your dog" one of those cowboy type people who dont care about anything but the money.
Meg
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15-11-2010, 01:30 PM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
When training the recall you start with the dog on lead! So as soon as you press/call you guide the dog back. The dog has no chance to learn to move away!

Adam
What a dreadful way to train a dog (I use the word 'train' loosely here it is more about coercing a dog than training it) . I start training a recall in the house without a lead , perhaps that's the problem Adam, you just don't now how to train dogs.
wilbar
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15-11-2010, 01:36 PM
Originally Posted by Adam Palmer View Post
If the dog is motivated mainly by treat/toy then even if you praise all the way back to you the dog is still experienceing frustration on the return because that treat/toy is offered but not yet given.

Rubbish ~ the dog is returning because it is coming back in the expectation of a reward. It knows that it gets the reward when it reaches you so there's no frustration on the way back to you. The motivation is to return to you to get the reward.

Of course it looks nice because the frustration makes the dog run really fast to get back and get the treat/toy.

And I bet if I waved a lot of money at you & said "come & get it" you'd run fast too!

Of course you can start off with the dog two steps away from you and instant reward, but as you extend the distance the frustration re occurs.

Re e fences, the stock type fences tend not to work on dogs as they have a thick coat and tend to run under the rope just brushing it with the hair, this prevents them getting a stim. aka an electric shock.

Also because dogs dive through them if they experience the stim they're already half way through so just keep going.

of course they would keep going if they're already half way through in the act of sheep chasing & especially if the adrenalin of prey hunting masks the pain of the shock.

Cattle sheep ect tend to touch these fences with the nose first (to investigate them) this gives them a stim and conditions them to avoid the fence.
Invisible dog fences have a much wider range 2 metres sometimes, so the dog has less chance of running through them and because you condition the dog to turn back from the beep ec the dog learns not to try the fence out!
I tend to recomend the invisible fence is used as a back up to a solid boundary though. Often they are useful for dogs that dig, climb, bite through ect.

When training the recall you start with the dog on lead! So as soon as you press/call you guide the dog back. The dog has no chance to learn to move away!

But that's exactly what you do with any recall training ~ you don't have to administer an electric shock to do this! You condition the verbal recall command by pairing it with a reward/reinforcer to ensure the behaviour of coming back increases.

Adam
I still don't see why you think that positive reinforcement causes frustration &/or discomfort. If you are witholding the reward for some reason, then that's not positive reinforcement. The aim of pos R is to set things up for the dog to be successful & get the reward, by shaping, small approximations towards the correct behaviour, in locations where the reinforcers are not blocked or overshadowed by other distractions. Then you work up to more distractions etc, all the time you have that good solid & reliable base to work with. It may sometimes take longer & is not an instant fix, but far better that than a scared, traumatised, unwilling dog or a dog that associates training with pain & fear & suppresses every other normal behaviour for fear of getting an electric shock.
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