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rune
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Location: cornwall uk
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29-01-2011, 09:59 PM
Can I ask what she is fed on? What are used for treats?

I had a highly reactive GSD who was a lot less reactive on foods with no colourings etc.

Just a thought, not saying it would solve the problem but might help a bit.

I'd avoid the corner until I had more control, not being able to control the staffie is unhelpful to say the least.

The 100 yd dash is all very well but must raise the adrenalin levels.

Could she be taught to carry a toy?

rune
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Krusewalker
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29-01-2011, 10:03 PM
Originally Posted by rune View Post
Can I ask what she is fed on? What are used for treats?

I had a highly reactive GSD who was a lot less reactive on foods with no colourings etc.

Just a thought, not saying it would solve the problem but might help a bit.

I'd avoid the corner until I had more control, not being able to control the staffie is unhelpful to say the least.

The 100 yd dash is all very well but must raise the adrenalin levels.

Could she be taught to carry a toy?

rune
hi rune

diet is very good and not a factor
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Krusewalker
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29-01-2011, 10:16 PM
Originally Posted by mishflynn View Post
No, it would take time.

Id teach the eye contact first.With no distractions.

When a dogs reacts/pulls i "throw" the lead (i hold the leadbut throw all contact away) if the dog puls forward i step back & throw the lead again.

The dog gets no "back up from me"by having tension on lead.
"you are on your on son"

As soon as the dog relaxs i then ask for eye contact, Name response, id then use alot of food on the ground along with more name response.

The barking will minimalise itself.

I might teach a "leave it" or " quiet" if barking continues

Works for me , big time!
ummm, interesting.

so you would be more coming from the perspective of the female handler here?
as in working thru the frustration until it burns itself out, thus focussing on impulse control?
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Adam P
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29-01-2011, 10:17 PM
Haven't read the other replies but it seems to me all this stopping and waiting business is doing nothing but winding the dog right up.

When she misbehaves give her an effective lead correction but carry on walking, same with bark/lunge ect.

Eye contact isn't needed and imo cause unnessary stress to a reactive dog (wants to look too much) just insist she walks nice/doesn't bark.

Adam
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MerlinsMum
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29-01-2011, 10:31 PM
Well..... you're the expert, of course.
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Krusewalker
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29-01-2011, 10:43 PM
as per azz's new rule, as the thread starter i state no ecollar referances are allowed on my thread.

....all other suggestions welcome, even if not agreed with

many thanks

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MerlinsMum
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29-01-2011, 10:50 PM
Originally Posted by Krusewalker View Post
with all due respects merlinsmum, plus dont enter the ecollar argument into this thread.
Will do - with grace.... and apologies.
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Krusewalker
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29-01-2011, 10:51 PM
Originally Posted by MerlinsMum View Post
Will do - with grace.... and apologies.
many thanks for taking that as meant



my post edited in kind
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Wysiwyg
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30-01-2011, 12:22 AM
In my view, certainly the staffy business would be making the dog worse, although I can see why this is thought a reasonable thing to do.

Also to be honest, I'd be embarrassed as being seen as maybe winding up the staffie and the owner coming out

I'd try to avoid/cross over/go on other side of street or a different walk, if this is impossible I'd possible go past fast with use of toy or similar, but would have to see the situation - whatever, the emphasis would be on less adrenalin pumping and more avoiding/calm etc, this latter needs to be taught away from highly arousing situations until very good and then maybe used in more arousing situations

Just a few thoughts

Wys
x
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mishflynn
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30-01-2011, 08:14 AM
Originally Posted by Krusewalker View Post
ummm, interesting.

so you would be more coming from the perspective of the female handler here?
as in working thru the frustration until it burns itself out, thus focussing on impulse control?
No i dont think so, thats just how i do it. Thefrustration does not "burn" itself out, it does not get to that level,

If the lead throwing did not work then i would slowley circle the dog & then "lead throw" ,still didnt work id do it again.

it works for the reactive dogs i train.

Its a kind effective method that i then move onto a long line
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