Again, thank you one and all. Unfortunately where I live near Dungeness, we have not got any parks, much less tennis courts. It would be sheer bliss to be able to let Tia off to play ball with her for a while (the last 2 occasions when I threw a ball for her out on the walk, she disappeared into gorse bushes and reappeared sometime later, minus ball!). It would be lovely to have somewhere enclosed that I could allow her to run free, but for now, that will have to be indoors, throwing her favourite toy i.e. squeaky dumb-bell or ball from the lounge through into the bedroom. Tomorrow is another day, we will overcome x

Here is the video Wys mentioned from the dog trust..

http://www.dogstrust.org.uk/az/p/pullingonthelead/default.aspx

and another from the APDT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx03aCuJVg8

What both videos show is how important it is to practise loose lead walking at home .I think very often people confuse training a dog to walk on a lead with going for a walk and fail to do the groundwork at home, this can lead to bad habits which can be difficult to correct .

I cannot say anything other than echo what the others have said, except chokers.

I have a 9 month old ESS x Lab (Louie) - he can pull me over in seconds if he wanted too. (I am 5'4" and 9 stone)

I have found a harness the best - now harness were designed for pulling. So I attached a O- ring to the front and used a double ended lead (you can buy harness like this off the net and shops) This works well.

If I leave it or lose the harness - I use a harness I haven't adapted and use the turn around method, longer walk but I get there - eventually.

Louie also lunges at dogs and horses - playfully though. Today we went for a country park walk, every horse we saw I sat him down and made him stay, whilst holding the lead and his collar and down at his level (That way I can sit if he lunges and he can't pull me over ) I ask the riders to not trot past - like they tend to do, but to walk slowly and he only lunged once and that was because my other dog got over excited.

You could try this with dogs, or pull her to one side, then follow the other dog til she sees it as not a threat, we do this with out Dog aggressive dog and today he made a face to face meeting with a 9 month old Dali - and only barked when her and my pup started rushing around. So progress well made IMO.

Good luck.

The reason I gave the link is because it's a great guide for helping people to understand the "how" of training their dogs

You can use either headcollars or harnesses, the "challenge" is to follow a plan for several weeks and to keep to it, and then hopefully it will benefit dog and owner.

http://www.dogtrainandbehaveweek.com...gchallenge.php

"The 4 part training guide is written by our expert trainers, that will teach you how to stop your dog pulling".





Wys
x

I have not read the whole thread but would make the following observations:

Equipment - it is not equipment that stops dogs from pulling, it is training; equipment MAY stop the dog pulling so HARD, but it will not eliminate it.

Flexi leads - these are absolutely HOPELESS on pulling dogs as by their very design they are always taut, so the dog learns NEVER to walk on a loose lead, bin it.

If go on to Learning About dogs Website, it has a book/DVD on how to teach your dog to walk on a loose lead, it is very effective.

If you have no recall, then do not let the dog off a long line, and again get some training.

Classes do not suit ALL dogs, and, like classrooms, some pupils have to be excluded in order for the majority to learn, however your trainer should either do 1:1 classes or be able to direct you to someone who can.

You may then get to a stage where classes are suitable.

Where do you live, perhaps I can recommend someone?

Great points.

I totally agree - there is no substitute for help from a good, experienced trainer. It really makes the world of difference.

The headcollar helps you remain in control of your dog - and thus safe - between sessions when you are out walking. The skills you learn from a good trainer means that, with time, you should be able to rely less on the headcollar and begin walking on a 'normal' lead and collar.

Training plus a properly fitting headcollar = vast improvement

Hi again,
I have watched and hopefully, inwardly digested all the links that you kindly posted yesterday and today for me. I will now dedicate my lunch-time walk each day with Tia to be a training session on loose leash walking, and in fact managed a little bit today. She looked a little bemused at the constant change in direction but who knows, it may well work, I'll try anything once, twice or however long it takes. Although I have a "training" lead it is not a double ender, but I am going to sort that out and carry on using the halti on her as I obviously haven't been using it to it's full potential. I won't give up on her and once we have the "pulling" sorted, we will start again on recall training. Thanx again folks.

I've browsed through the thread and couldn't see a link to this, but sorry if it's been posted already. I find the 300 peck method good - it works in a way that you're always only a step away (literally) from each goal so it's great when you're feeling a little frustrated with the dog - you can cut the training session short if you need a break but you've still probably achieved quite a few goals as they're based on little steps.
http://www.druidalegsd.karoo.net/300_peck.pdf

I sympathise with you! I am in exactly the same situation with my Cain, a reactive lungy rescue who cannot be let off lead. I too wish I could let him off for a good run

I've struggled for almost a year to get Cain to stop pulling, have tried many different methods and equipment etc and bit by bit he has got better. Currently I have found those works best for us - a Halti and a flat collar with a double ended lead. I don't use the Halri to stop him pulling, I didn't find it worked at all, it just stopped him pulling as hard. I try to keep the lead loose and if pressure goes on I try and make sure it's in the collar, I just use the Halti to maintain control if he lunges.

I use a flexi lead because I need to give him some freedom and he can't go off lead. I agree with the others, not great and it probably has been the reason why it has taken so long to get him to walk nicely - however I get in a right muddle with a long line, I can't reel him in fast enough if another dog runs over and I feel more in control with the flexi, so despite it's down sides I continue to use it.

I purchased Turid Rugaas book "my dog pulls - what do I do?" and it's brilliant! Before I have tried every method going but this is the only one Cain has responded to. We've only done a few sessions and he's already walking far better. I can't recommend the book enough

Good luck, keep up updated, our dogs sound quite similar and I'd like to hear about your progress

A quick tug isn't a yank.I think your misunderstanding what i am saying here, the tug is to distract his attention.