I totally understand, as having hat kind of scare would make anyone a bit jumpy! I think the key is partly to manage the environment so that the house is as tidy as possible and also remember that if the dog does get something, you can always calmly distract by say, ringing the front doorbell or anything that will cause the dog to hopefully drop what he is doing and move away to investigate, so that someone can then calmly close an in between door and later pick up the offending article.

Hope that makes sense? You don't want your dog to think you are doing this in a reaction to his having the article, it must be done almost incidentally so he does not link the two!

Good luck
Wys
x

Yes it makes perfect sense to me and hopefully we'll have him msorted out very soon.

I posted last Friday after my GS pup 'bit' my teenage daugther.

I now have my copy of 'MINE' by Jean Donaldson, I feel a little daunted to say the least.

I think Alfie's issues are a little complex and unpredictable.

He has no problem with having any part of his body touched. The book seems to suggest to me that this goes hand in hand with Resource Guarding. Toys can sometimes be a slight problem but he usually gives things like tennis balls up without too much hastle.

His main problem is stealing a food item, like a piece of defrosting chicken that was left in a vulnerable spot, food wrappers, dirty tissues/kitchen roll or something like a tin can that has perhaps not been washed at disposed off properly, or if someone has left the bin lid up and he finds a meat wrapper/bag.

I don't think I/we are capable of dealing with this on our own, I'm guessing that the majority of people would not deal with this without some professional help.

My daugther although she said on Friday that we mustn't give up on him has virtually ignored him since then, which makes things harder.

I know it's going to take time to fix, I think I just need some reassurance from you all to take the next step.

Thanks again
Nicola

You have to dog proof rubbish etc to prevent him getting his prizes.
Then look at exchanging something of reward for his prize.
You are not rewarding the steal you will be rewarding him giving it up to you.
you can still distract with a toy or treat while you then retrieve the prize back.

Some interesting advice here given by Smokeybear. I will be reading it again tomorrow.

I had to smile when someone asked what if the dog thinks it already has the best thing - my dog would never think that - she is convinced that whatever I'VE GOT is better than what she's got! Even if I had the dogfood and she had my dinner she'd still want mine more!

As for the 2am stint - well the only time I'd stay up later than I wanted to or get up again after going to bed for a dog would be to let a puppy out to pee or to care for a sick dog.

Certainly wouldn't stand around for hours waiting for the dog to calm down before feeding it.

I think you need to read the book a few more times (I always recommend this before wading in).

I do not believe (and I have had this book for quite a number of years) that JD implies that all resource guarding is related to body sensitivity...........

I am a little confused by your post TBH as previously you commented on him stealing a pin cushion.

In any case the steps re counter conditioning and desensitisation apply to all, food, locations, object, people etc.

I do think if you have not dealt with these issues before then getting help from a reputable source is vital they can support you along the way.

Steve Mann is more than capable of helping you in this regards.

HTH

If you can afford a professional, and think you need one, that it will certainly be easier to employ one. They will lead the changes, and you'll have their opinion and them to moan it on those days when it feels like nothing has changed.

But, at the end of the day, its you doing the work. The professional will come round to show you what to do, to check on you and contact you frequently, and to see how it is going. You'll be the one who does the work, though - and you'll be the one who has the benefit, and that feeling of utter elation when it works. It will work - he will learn, and you'll forget this ever was an issue.

Your daughter will get in board when she sees you start training. It must have been a horrid shock, and she's probably still feeling wounded and not entirely forgiven him. It will happen, though. She's very unlikely to hold a permanent grudge, especially once he's started making progress.

If you are finding it overwhelming, post up what you are starting with first, and we can help you along.

I wouldnt assume socks or anything indigestible to not be dangerous. Ive heard a few stories on other forums of late where they have had dogs having ops to remove foreign bodies such as socks.

On a lighter note! i remembered my old trainer mention a GS club that uses his field and it seems (just had a look on the webbo) that its rather popular!
thedogcentre.com/events.cfm?event=35

Alfie has stolen so many things, the pin cushion complete with pins was probably the worst in terms of danger to him and he was relatively ok about giving it up. Stolen food is what produces the most guarding.

I am new on here so don't mind being told to shush if i'm wrong but I thought that a stolen food item should be ignored (ie - let them have it) as in the wild if a low ranking dog manages to steal from a kill it is not punished or challenged for it??? I guess a lot comes down to your family's management of putting valuable foods out of his way, he can only steal if it's within his reach anyway? Treat him like a baby and put everything out of his way until he learns not to touch.