Advice urgently needed!!!!

Hi there I am very very keen on raw feeding my dog but I have no clue as 2 what u do
how do u start it? - i mean he's on dry food at the mo so do i slowly introduce it or just do a straight swap?

as it is raw will he get more protective ova his food?

what about all the bacteria?

i dont understand all this offel muscle bone etc and the quantities he should get!

can i not just give him natures diet? - will this need 2 b mixed with dry food or is it ok on it's own?

does it not work out really expensive 2 give them raw meat every day?

where do u get ur food from? - supermarket, butchers or petshop?

is there anything i should avoid?

my dog is a nearly 3 yr springer x cocker spaniel by the way.
thanx 4 takin the time 2 read and answer my q's.

feel foolish 4 asking but want what's best 4 my dog - he's had a bad upbringing b4 i got him now i want 2 show him the best life can offer

I'm sure you'll get loads of great advice on here.

He shouldn't get more protective of food, the best way I've found of preventing this sort of thing is add extra tasty little things to the bowl while he's eating, then rather than the dog worrying about having his food taken off him, he'll find it nice to have you around while he's eating.

I get raw food from 'Landywoods' (put that in google) I find raw food works out cheaper than quite a lot of other good quality dog food.

The are so many different versions of feeding raw, so most people just do what works best for them, I'm sure others will give you advice on that - I give raw meat and meaty bones every now and then plus blended up raw veg every now and then plus and bit of 'Keepers mix' from dorwest herbs and a tin of pilchards in tomatoe sauce every now and then, I don't have a strict plan at all.

As I've said I'm sure you'll get loads of advice but hope I've been of some help.

Hi,

It's great that you want to raw feed your dog. But personally I'm having a hard time translating the text speak into proper english in order to answer your questions.

Do lots of research into raw feeding and the different ways to do it, then you can decide what works best for you and your dog.

First of all - no need to rush into it, I researched raw for probably about a year before I switched my dogs onto it (partially because it wasn't practical before then, but it gave me a good chance to read about it). There's several books - Ian Billinghurst's "Give your dog a bone" is often recommended, there's Yahoo groups, e.g. BritBarf, and there's lots of websites. Just remember that anyone can write a book/start a group/post a webpage so don't take written word as gospel, but just read as much as you can and you'll find common trends that tend to make sense.
One thing you will find is that there's two main sort of splits in raw feeding - BARF and prey model. There's lots of methods inbetween or loosely based on either too, but BARF tends to go on the idea that wolves would scavenge veg, fruit, herbs, etc. so fruit & veg plays a big part in the diet, the prey model tends to go on the basis that wolves are strict carnivores and fruit/veg would play a very tiny, mostly ignorable, part of the diet. I base my dogs' diet on prey model but they do get extras that mimic stuff that a scavenging wolf or wild dog might come across - raw eggs, for example, fish (wolves, especially in certain areas, would fish for salmon), bits like that. You'll find lots of different opinions so it's a case of deciding what you think is right.

how do u start it? - i mean he's on dry food at the mo so do i slowly introduce it or just do a straight swap?

You can go "cold turkey" (excuse the pun!) - when switching from one kibble to another, I would recommend a gradual change, but there's lots of hearsay about kibble being digested at a different rate from raw and that they shouldn't be mixed. I personally don't think this is a major issue (afterall, we eat meals with various components that I don't imagine digest at the same rate) but one thing you may find is that your dog turns its nose up at "boring" kibble once you introduce bits of raw anyway! Another option would be to feed raw for one meal, and kibble for the next (if you feed two meals a day), then move onto raw completely.

as it is raw will he get more protective ova his food?

Raw doesn't cause a change in the sort of "He's got a taste for blood, ahh!" way that lots of people like to suggest, but it can be considered more high-value by the dog, especially initially, before they realise they'll be getting it daily. I'd never faff around with a dog that's eating, but if food possession could cause an issue (e.g. around kids, or another dog), give the dog a quiet area to go and eat its meal where it won't be disturbed. Bones can be especially high value to some dogs. If I ever need to take something off my dogs (some of the bones I feed contain a really brittle bit at the end, which I remove and bin), I know I can do it, but I always try to swap it for something yummy (e.g. handful of treats or a bit of meat) so they don't feel the need to protect it.

what about all the bacteria?

Dogs have the perfect digestive tract to eat raw - afterall, wolves don't cook their prey before dinner! Their digestive system is a lot shorter than ours, so bacteria doesn't sit around multiplying, and they have a strong stomach acid. Obviously just practise some hygeine rules - feed the dog on a towel that you can take up and wash, or on tiled floor you can wipe down, wash your hands after touching raw meat, etc.

i dont understand all this offel muscle bone etc and the quantities he should get!

This varies with different opinions. The prey model diet bases it on what a wolf would eat from its normal prey - this works out about 80% meat, 10% bone and 10% offal (this is allowing for big marrow bones etc. that would be gnawed but not generally eaten). Half of the offal should be liver (high in lots of vitamins) and half should be other offal (kidneys, pancreas, lungs, etc) - variety is the key here, different organs provide different vitamins and minerals. For the sake of raw feeding, heart is muscle, not offal - because the heart really is just a bit muscle that contracts to pump blood (it can be a little higher in some vitamins than muscle meat but not significantly so, not like the liver)

can i not just give him natures diet? - will this need 2 b mixed with dry food or is it ok on it's own?

NatureDiet is a complete food so you could feed it if you want. You can mix with dry food - I used to feed my last dog NatureDiet with a premium kibble (Nutro, you can't buy it anymore, but it's comparable to something like James Wellbeloved I think). Lots of people are switching to raw though because they want something that provides a more natural diet and that has the mental stimulation of bones to gnaw, muscles to rip up, etc. Not to mention you can control what you feed and customise it to suit your dog.
Another reason is that more and more dogs are being diagnosed with allergies or an intolerance to grains, and raw feeding is a good way to a) help diagnose the dog and b) feed a complete diet but avoid grains.
There's nothing wrong with feeding a commercial diet of wet and/or dry if you want to, don't feel you have to jump on any bandwagons or anything if you're not comfortable with feeding raw, you could do more harm feeding an unbalanced raw diet than a complete commercial diet. Just bear in mind that feeding wet-only may not be great for the dog's teeth so either consider raw or make sure you feed chews to help clean the teeth (or teach the dog to have its teeth brushed)

does it not work out really expensive 2 give them raw meat every day?

Depends where you source your food from. Supermarkets can work out expensive longterm but can be good to trial it. I worked out that it cost about £60 per dog to feed them with supermarket meat, but they are large breed dogs! I decided to switch to a raw food supplier partially for cost, and partially for variety (I don't have many good supermarkets locally, so what I could get hold of was a bit limited) and I now pay £40 a month to feed them both! If you can get freebies then it makes it even cheaper. So it can be as cheap or expensive as you make it.

where do u get ur food from? - supermarket, butchers or petshop?

As mentioned, I use a specific raw food supplier - there's several online, Landywoods, DAF and The Dogfood Company being a few I can think of. Lots of people manage to get bits off their local butcher (the one near my work will give me big marrow bones but these are more as a treat than a regular part of the diet), others find it easier to buy with their own supermarket shopping, and others feed the Prize Choice etc. type stuff from petshops. There's also a few companies now producing complete raw foods - Darling's real food and Natural Instinct being the two I can think of. The space available to store food can obviously be the deciding factor of where you source from, lots of the specific raw food companies have a minimum order. I have a large chest freezer in my summerhouse that fits about 150lb of meat, so that lasts my two the month as well as leaving room for the food I order for two other people. Not everyone has the benefit of a big freezer though!

is there anything i should avoid?

There's a few "rules" of raw feeding, a few guidelines, and then you'll discover what suits your dog and what doesn't.
Definately
- don't feed cooked bones, these splinter and can cause serious damage
- avoid large, weight-bearing bones, e.g. large cow leg bones. These also tend to splinter, despite being raw, simply because of how dense they are (they have to be, to support a large animal's weight)
- don't feed too much liver as this will cause diarroeah (and you can overdose in Vitamin A - yes, you can have too much of a good thing!)
- don't feed too much bone as this will cause constipation
- watch out for hidden ingredients. Lots of butchers, for example, are cottoning on to the raw feeding trend and making "pet minces". Do ask what's in them, as often they will just chuck their leftovers in and you'll end up with a mince that has too much offal in (will upset a dog's tum) and too much fat in from meat trimmings (you'll have a fat dog!)
- try to give a variety of meats and textures. Do introduce one meat at a time - this will be easier on the dog's stomach and allow you to identify whether something doesn't agree with your dog, but a variety of meats will provide a variety of different nutrients so provide a more balanced diet. Different textures will benefit the dog's teeth and mental health - feeding just minces won't give the teeth much of a workout, and a dog will get mental stimulation out of doing what comes naturally and tearing up a lump of meat. Not all meats will agree with a dog - my two get terrible wind on lamb, they can have a little but I can definately smell when they've had too much!
- bear in mind that some foods can contain parasites. Work out a regular worming regime with your vet, and freeze food if you're unsure. Pork, for example, was well documented as a carrier of trichinella spiralis. I believe British pork is now tested for it, but freezing will kill the parasite anyway. Salmon is known for carring parasites too, so freeze or cook to kill them off (my two won't eat raw fish anyway, so it's always cooked - I buy fillets so I don't have to worry about removing bones)
- read, read and read some more! Hopefully this post has helped clear up your queries but you can never do too much research.

Some good posts in this thread Be sure to check out the two sticky threads in this section as well - they also contain some great info.

Raw Feeding Guidelines

Although many people successfully feed commercial foods to their dogs scores of owners are choosing to use fewer processed products in both their own diet and that of their pets.

After all dogs are not equipped with can openers or cooking utensils and were designed to hunt, catch, kill and feed on a wide variety of prey animals as well as to be opportunistic scavengers.

Dogs are scientifically classified as carnivores, manifest by their physique. They have eyes at the front of their head in order to observe potential food, jaws that move up and down, as opposed to the side to side movement present in omnivores/herbivores, no flat topped molars with which to chew and a shorter digestive tract reflecting the fact that they were created to consume little or no vegetation or cereals/grains.

Feeding a raw diet is often seen as somewhat revolutionary however it must be remembered that dogs have not only survived but thrived on such nutrition for hundreds of years prior to the advent of manufactured dog food.

One of the main concerns expressed by owners is that they cannot successfully replicate the scientifically researched diets that pet food companies quote as their USP (unique selling point). However, just as a degree is not required to adequately nourish ourselves, the same is true for our canine companions.

There is a plethora of information on raw feeding produced by qualified pet nutritionists and/or veterinary surgeons who have specialised in this field; therefore creating a satisfactory home diet need not be overly onerous or complicated for the ordinary dog owner.

Quantities

For adults approximately 2 - 3% of their bodyweight per day. Calculate this by multiplying 2/3 by your dog's weight and dividing it by 100.

Eg 2 x 30/100 = 600g, 3 x 30/100 = 900g.

For puppies feed circa 10% of their present bodyweight or 2-3% of their projected adult weight per day.

However be guided by your hand and eye; if the dog is looking a little too ribby up the amount and reduce if the dog is looking a little too well padded! Dogs will vary on their requirements depending on age, sex, activity level, temperament and time of year etc.

Frequency

Dogs should be fed twice a day for the following reasons:
• To minimise the risk of Bloat/GDV
• To avoid blood sugar fluctuations

Meats

Lamb, beef, chicken, turkey, rabbit, pork, venison, duck, hare, and/or anything you can get your hands on; some dogs regularly chow down on more exotic species.

Dogs require the correct calciumhosphorus ratio and so it is essential to feed raw meaty bones (RMBs) as well as muscle meat.

Offal such as hearts, lungs, kidneys, tripe, liver is also essential (although strictly speaking the heart is a muscle like the tongue).

Fish

Oily fish such as pilchards, mackerel, sardines, etc provide a good source of Omega 3; if it is difficult to obtain fresh, then tinned makes a good substitute. Tuna may contain high levels of mercury and is a less valuable source of Omega 3.

Vegetables

Onions must not be fed to dogs in any form as they can cause haemolytic anaemia which can be fatal. Avocados contain persin which can produce problems in some animals.

All other vegetables may be fed however, for a dog to get any nutritional benefit from vegetables, they must either be pulped or frozen, otherwise they go out the way they went in and can only be used as source of fibre.

Oxalic acid can interfere with calcium absorption; so don't feed too much of Spinach or Chard.

Care should also be taken not to overfeed vegetables from the cruciferous family eg cabbage, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, kale, swedes, turnips and broccoli to dogs as this may inhibit thyroid function.

Tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and aubergines all belong to the nightshade family of plants. Dogs who have arthritis may be sensitive to these foods which may exacerbate their condition. It is doubtful if raw potato can be digested successfully in any case.

Garlic is a useful addition to the diet as it performs an antiseptic, antibiotic, antifungal function.

Fruit

All except grapes (and raisins) which can cause kidney failure and death in even very small amounts. Bananas are an excellent source of pre-biotics essential for gut health.

Bear in mind fruit and/or vegetables should not make up more than 10% of diet and can have a laxative effect!

Dairy

No animal post weaning consumes milk bar humans however live yoghurt can be very useful for poorly stomachs because of its probiotic content provided that dogs are not intolerant to lactose (milk sugar) and casein (milk protein). As puppies leave their dams equipped with a full set of teeth bones are a more appropriate source of calcium.

Eggs can be given raw each day, the shells are good sources of calcium but only when powdered, otherwise they merely provide roughage.

Grains/cereals

There is no proven need for carbohydrates in the dog’s diet and of course these need to be cooked before they can be successfully digested by the canine.

Books (in order of simplicity/accessibility)

• Switching to Raw by Sue Johnson
• Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats by Kymythy Schulze
• The Barf Diet by Ian Billingshurst
• Give your Dog a Bone by Ian Billingshurst
• Grow your pups with Bones by Ian Billingshurst
• Work Wonders by Tom Lonsdale
• Raw Meaty Bones by Tom Lonsdale

Websites - Britbarf, K9nutrition yahoo groups the first is UK the second is an excellent US site,
In addition the B Naturals site by Lew Olson, PhD in Natural Nutrition
Dogaware