People aggressive jrt, snap and bite.

Intro clicker and taught a few default behaviours.

Intro look at that game (long distance) and used high rate of reward.

Closed down the distance and switched to tuggy as reward.

Transfered the tuggy to a stooge person. Then another, and another and so on.

Out and about got the owner stopping and chatting to people while scattering treats on the floor for the dog to eat.

Got the dog trained in a few more commands and got stooge people to give commands then reward with tuggy/food.

Very gradually desensitised/cced the dog to strange hands approaching it.

Taught the dog a ''run under'' behaviour were by if you held you hand at its shoulder height and said ''under'' it would stand underneath (so touching was its move not the strangers), got it to do this to be touched, jackpot with tuggy reward.

Once we got to this point the dog thought everyone was an opportunity for reward so was quite social.

Adam

Adam, that sounds great
Can I ask why you have taken the time with some clients dogs but you went for a quick fix method with your own dog? Surly as a dog trainer you have the time and the skill to work the positive method better than the owners you are training?

But if you think the method is bogus, then you won't really get it to work, Adam. I really thought & hoped that there were no more trainers like you, compared t the methods you use CM is mild... just an observation based on your you tube vids.

Because it doesn't work with every dog.

Adam

I agree Brierley, well said

Wys
x

Off topic posts removed

You also have to consider time/management.

If you have a dog that is doing something that threatens his or others lives and there is no way of managing that in the mean time. Or that management is so difficult it is likely to breakdown then taking a while to resolve an issue is likely to cost the dog its life.

With the snappy jrt the owners were in a good position to manage him

That also raises a good point about rehabs in general. Even if the dog has a behaviour that is not too bad if your unable to manage the environment sufficently to prevent him practising and haveing ''wrong'' learning experiences you will make relatively little progress and will suffer set backs ect.

In both cases its in the dogs best interest to instill some coping/avoidance behaviour that keeps him and everyone around him safe in the short and long term. This coping behaviour can then become the default behaviour you use as part of overall retraining.

You also have to consider that while many reward based trainers consider aversives intrinsically bad and the wrong approach this is not the case and in many ways aversives can be much better in the long term.

Adam

True, but we as owners can train with those moments in mind. I make up senarios where I imagine that my dog is heading for a busy road when she is tearing across the yard with her sister, Izze & I call her; she is up to about 90% recall now, of course when she is not in a safe area she is on a leash until she is full proof on leave it, drop it & come at least in all situations.

Aversions are not all bad (apart from the ones that mean to cause pain). But i do not agree with using a aversion to correct the bad behaviour BEFORE the correct behaviour is taught. To me that is unfair

Generally speaking there can be fallout with aversives, which is one very good reason as to why some people don't choose to use them.

It does "depend". But overall, that would be my view.