I use a Halti with my GSD but not for pulling. She can be reactive and I need to control the sharp end if some plonker leaps at us.
If you do use one, please use with a double-ended lead and a flat or half check collar as they can be injured if pulled round sharply (in panic for example)
I use the `drunken Walk` method of training to loose lead walking. You simply change direction every time the dog moves ahead of you. You weave about till the dog starts to follow, then you praise and continue the way you wanted to go. Perhaps your OH could have a go at that method? It doesn`t take any strength as you simply do a half turn.
(Don`t turn round the other way or the dog can pull against you, do a sideways move. )

He is excellent walking on the lead and only really pulls when he sees another dog and wants to get to it. Thats why I thought a head collar would give me some more control and stop him pulling towards them.

Consequences of when he starts to bark, if we put him back inside and he starts to jump up at the door, once quiet he gets let back outside again with praise for being quiet.

Like you say, its not the public image I want for him or us. I dont want people crossing the road to avoid us!! He is a great dog and if I can get him over this, he will become a fantastic dog.

I understand these things take time and there wont be a quick fix. I'm putting the time in with him and the rest of the family are consistent with him.

Thanks again, I'll get a headcollar and carry on from there.

Maybe enrolling him in a puppy class may help.. if you find a nice positive methods only class it may help him and you learn to control the behaviour.

I can't argue with the above posts though. I have no experience in Shepherds, only half and a bit of one.

Puppy classes will also help him socialise with all other dogs as well - perhaps find a Dogsey member in your area and see if they will help you with his socialisation, a calm, non reactive dog will be best for this type of situation.

The other advice is brilliant Good luck

For months my Lab did the same thing any time we saw a dog - he would lunge, bark, and generally go utterly beserk.

Nothing helped until I started taking him more often to the local park and letting him have off leash time to play with other dogs.

That made a big difference as it took away the desperation to engage with any and every dog we saw while out walking.

As you have a young dog it could be a similar thing - an intense desire to play with and engage with his fellow dogs

It can look very much like aggression but may well not be.

The other thing that helped me was walking my Lab on a headcollar - this meant he could not lunge so badly and instead I could walk him more calmly over to the other dog and then reward him FOR that calmer behaviour.

What does your trainer say? I would not recommend an anti-bark collar because the barking is not necessarily a 'bad' or 'problem' behaviour. It can be excitement.

If you're worried however that it is instead either more fear related, or a territorial thing, then really I suggest getting a good trainer in to help you on a one-to-one basis. I had to do this as my dog was going SO mad at the mere sight of other dogs.

Another thing which really helps: make sure YOU keep a relaxed lead! It's hard when you know your dog is probably about to kick off but the more tense you are, the more likely he is to get excited/nervous/tense. I didn't believe this myself until I saw it work with my own dog.

Best of luck Your dog is still very young so try not to worry

Just to add, it does rather sound as though your young lad is not maybe playing with other dogs as much as he would like to

I really noted a difference in my dog once I allowed him to engage at the park. I keep him on a long line (20 meters) so that if he wants to run off and hurtle after dogs in the distance I can stop him.

Re headcollars - SMOKEY BEAR is spot on, it is trial and error and many of us have to try several - I've tried virtually every one out there and they don't all suit all dogs.

If you're wondering which one to start with, I'd suggest either the Dogmatic OR the Gentle Leader.

If you go with Dogmatic, remember it MUST be a good fit, if you email them they will be happy to advise you.

Gentle Leader is less expensive but again remember the collar bit around the top of the neck must be VERY snug.

Thank goodness you are trying to deal with this issue now. Jake is 4 years old in July and we still have this problem with him. He went to puppy class and training for a year and was great but out of 'training mode' just reverted back to this behaviour. It is my fault entirely plus circumstances of where I live do come into play, in my defence, but I so wish I had made a big big push to meet as many other dogs as possible when this behaviour started. If it is affordable I would get the benefit of good training advice from someone who knows GSDs and once you've got him sorted you'll never look back. Good luck. Gill

hi there dexters dad, just thought id let you know you are not alone in this problem, my 27 week old gsd bitch is exactly the same, she is getting slightly better with me taking her to places where she can meet other dogs like dog shows, but i will now also take some of tabitha's advice and take her to places where she can meet other dogs offlead to play

she also lunges, barks, hackles raised, tail going ten to the dozen ( i know its over excitement)

she is a very bright little pup, i will be starting tracking training with her as soon as i get a harness to fit her, to try and focus her mind more, and then hopefully start training for working trials ( my trainer advises i do this with her, rather than agility or flyball as they tend to be sports dogs get over excited in doing and working trials will make her "think")

let us know how you get on with your pup

Thanks all for the responses and I am glad I am not alone and people have been/going through the same.

Whilst we are at our holiday home, I am going to keep punishing (for want of a better word) by putting him inside every time he goes mad at other dogs. Hopefully he will realise that everytime he does it, he gets put inside. He is very smart so I'm hoping it wont take long.

I am also going to start head collar training with him in the hope it will stop him lunging whilst out and will enable more socialisation.

He did go to puppy classes but just went ballistic at the other dogs. I am almost certain he just wants to play but as he is on lead he cant! I also dont think the classes stimulated him enough as some dogs were still practising sit when he would sit/down/paw/stay/leave etc.

Thats the frustrating thing with him, he is so clever. It took 2 weeks to toilet train him, a few days to sleep through in his crate (after advice on here!). I know he has got it.

Its a shame he can't exercise more as he has endless energy. I have also had 2 different opinions on how much he can walk. On trainer has told me 5 mins per month of age (i.e. 25 a day) another as much as he can handle as long as walking and twisting turning etc! Both are apdt (?) trainers!

Thanks again for taking the time to reply, its most appreciated.

I wish every dog owner was the same as people on here, especially the woman who seems to goad him with her 2 westies and then complains he is a dangerous and aggressive dog and all GSD's are the same!!!

I'm sure Dexter will benefit no end to the advice too.

Thanks, thanks, thanks.

Negative punishment eg taking away something that the dog likes is perfectly acceptable. Dogs learn by cause and effect (hence my advice re allowing him to bark at passers by) so it should not take him long IF your timing is spot on, to make the connection that quiet = being with you and seeing the world but noise = isolation.

Good luck

Given his breed I would be especially careful not to overdo the exercise and would stick to the 5 minute rule. Lots of people take this to mean 5 minutes of your typical on-lead road walking and don't limit off-lead play so much, but I would still be a little cautious. This doesn't mean you can't tire him out with mental stimulation though! Look into clicker training and start teaching him new commands and tricks - some can have great benefits to his training, like the "watch me", and also teaching him to touch his nose to the palm of your hand on command (this can help shift his concentration back onto you before he reacts to another dog), some just for fun like teaching him to play dead! Mental stimulation can be just as exhausting as physical exercise, without the strain on the joints (just take care with certain tricks, e.g. not too much twisting around or unusual positions)