Greetings All, Help! :) (acquiring a puppy under the age of 6 weeks old)

Greetings all,

I've just signed up to this site as I'm another dog lover and soon to be an owner for the second time.

Basically, I'm getting my second dog on the 25th of this month (few days away!). It's going to be a 1/2 staff, 1/2 shar pei. 4 weeks old, male. Basically, I've got two questions.

1) I need an idea for some names. I'd like it to be one syllable. Can you all help me out

2) As it's four weeks old, I'm not quite sure how early I can/should get its vaccines. I was going to get it next wednesday. Also, I can't take it out for a walk after/before it's 1st vaccine right? (I'm aware it needs two but just wondering. The dog must feel really depressed staying inside in such great weather

If I've posted in the wrong place, just move it where it should be please.

Thanks and I appreciate any feedback

More will be along soon I'm sure...

Firstly 4 weeks is far too young to be leaving the mother! Even if they have fully weaned the pup, you can emotionally scar a puppy separating them before 6 weeks old at the earliest.. It doesn't seem that much longer to us, but in their short existence that's half their life so far again! You must speak to the breeder and encourage them to keep the pups for another 2 weeks with the mum and preferably the litter siblings for another fortnight.

Most vets will not begin the vaccinations before 6 weeks old and no you can't take him out before the second injection. You can play with them in your garden, or the garden of a friend if you don't have a garden, or take them out for a carry along with your other dog to just enjoy the weather, but you can't let them down on the floor outside at all.

Once the second set of injections have taken, (usually a week AFTER the second injection) the little pup is only going to need 5 - 10 mins walk maximum a day. So you'll still need to carry along on your other dog's walks and only put them down for a bit at a time.. Puppies think they can do more and he may protest, but if you let him over-stretch himself you may cause complications later on in life with his bones and joints...

I see. In that case, I'll wait an extra two weeks and follow your advice.

Thanks

Hi there

Are you certain that you want to get a pup from someone who would be willing to part him/her from the mum at only 4 weeks? Of course there are occassionally special reasons for this (e.g. mother dis-owning the pups - but even then the pup would benefit from staying with its litter mates) but gut reaction is that this is a really bad thing to do and suggests to me a total lack of care/understanding from the breeder.

There are so many staffies and staffie crosses in rescues at the moment, why don't you consider going that route rather than lining the pockets of someone who's only interest in their dog appears to be to make money from her?

The puppy wont be ready for a walk until it's about 12 weeks old if you get the vaccines done at the right time so I wouldn't concentrate on the summer with it.

I would even say that 6 weeks is a little early. I would leave it til it's 8 weeks. These are crucial weeks for a puppy. Good luck with whatever you decide

As others say 4 weeks is far too young. No decent breeder should even think of letting you have such a young pup. I'd be worried that if the breeder was willing to do this what else isn't being done properly?
The problems of taking a pup away too soon are long lasting. There is a lady who comes to classes with a dog which came from a puppy farm and was removed from the litter at that age and its had endless problems. There is so much that they learn from their mum and litter mates. You would be storing up so much work for yourself in future.

Is it too late to back out of getting this pup? any 'breeder' that is willing to let a pup go at 4 weeks, nearly a month before it should, is highly irresponsible. If you go ahead with it you will likely be setting yourself up for a lot of future problems.

I cannot imagine why any Breeder would allow a pup to go to it's new owner so early! Even if it were a rare situation, like the Mum had died, the pup should be with litter mates until at least 8 weeks. I would NEVER part with a pup before eight weeks, whatever the circumstances!

If I were you, I'd walk away and find a good Breeder with ethics or, as previously, go to a Rescue. I hear there are lots of Staffie type pups needing homes.

Thank you for giving the puppy a home and coming here for help. Note people, this is a mixed breed without a fancy name. Not a breeder, but more likely somebody that failed to spay their female or protect it when it was in season. I doubt they know much about good puppy care. We should encourage the OP to take the puppy.

I have to disagree about 8 weeks as being essential. The classic studies show 6 weeks is the minimum, and it is very important to begin exposing it to new experiences after that. There is a lot of support for 7 weeks.

The period between 6-12 weeks is a dangerous time. One sniff where a sick dog relieved itself in the last 6 months can bring on parvo or another life threatening disease. Fail to expose it to strangers, including men, women, children, noise, etc. and you could end up with a misfit you can't take out in public. They also need continuing contact with other dogs, but it must be limited to ones you know are getting good care.

This link has some sound advice on safely socializating a young puppy, http://www.apdt.com/po/news/docs/Messer_Nov06.pdf For more on the importance of early socialization, see http://www.akc.org/enewsletter/akc_b...nter/puppy.cfm

Better breeders here give the first shots or combo at 6 weeks and place the puppies soon after. Most vets give the next combo in another 2-3 weeks. Early shots are often useless. If the breeder doesn't give any shots, I would schedule a vet appointment as soon as you get the puppy and follow the vets advice. Chances are, the vet won't be impressed with opinions you read on the net.

Your screen name disturbs me. You puppy would be better off if you learned more about Ian Dunbar mentioned in the one link and the positive methods most people are switching to. Another link, http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...MGPHL9D1N1.DTL

You will fine help with a name and other things in this list:

What does a puppy need?

A crate. It is only natural that a puppy resists its crate at first. What the puppy wants more than anything else is to be others, you, anyone else in the household, and any other pets. In our modern society, even if we are home, other things distract us from the attention an uncrated puppy must have. The only real solution is to crate the dog when you aren't around. The dog may be happier in its den than loose in the house. It relaxes, it feels safe in its den. It rests, the body slows down reducing the need for water and relieving its self. Dogs that have been crated all along do very well. Many of them will rest in their crates even when the door is open. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire rack in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but a piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I think the plastic ones give the dog more of a safe, enclosed den feeling. Metal ones can be put in a corner or covered with something the dog can't pull in and chew. Select a crate just big enough for the full grown dog to stretch out in. At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or singing, until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the pattern, a period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the crate.

Chew toys. The pet stores are full of toys that many dogs will quickly chew up into pieces they could choke on or cause intestinal blockages. If you are not there to watch, stick to sturdy stuff such as Nylabones and Kongs. Keep a close eye on chew toys and quickly discard anything that is coming apart in pieces. Rawhide is especially bad because it swells after being swallowed. These problems are the worst with, but not limited to, large, aggressive chewers such as Labs.

Food. Find out what the breeder is feeding. If it is dry chow you can buy readily, I would stick with it until the dog is 4 months old, at that time switching to a dry adult chow. If not, try to have the breeder give you a few days supply to use making a gradual change to a dry puppy chow.

Dishes. Empty plastic food containers are good enough. If you want something nicer, buy the spill proof? ones. See http://www.petsmart.com/global/produ...1078323611448À. I have found them at Big Lots too.

A collar and leash. You should stay with a flat fabric or leather collar until your puppy is 5 months old. Then you can go with the metal slip collar with the rings on each end. Otherwise you could damage its windpipe. Put it on like this for the usual dog on the left position. Pull the chain through the one ring forming a"P". Facing the dog, slip it over its head. The free end comes over the neck allowing the other end to release pressure when the leash is slack. A five month old's head will still grow some. If you buy one that easily goes over the head, it still should come off leaving the ears when the dog finishes growing. I start the puppy out with a metal leash and switch to a leather one after the worst of the chewing is over and I need more control.

A name, try http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/names/petnames.htm#1 and http://www.cat-dog-names.com/

A brush. Start the puppy with a bristle brush. They don't shed much at first, and the bristle brush will remove dirt and help control odor. When shedding becomes a problem later, switch to a slicker brush with the wire teeth.

The number of a vet. It is very hard to evaluate them. Dogs need more medical care than in the past. Many new problems are wide spread.

A book. Any book is better than none at all. I like the Monks of New Skete and their The Art of Raising a Puppy, ISBN 0-316-57839-8.

Obedience training. A good obedience class or book is about you being top dog, not about rewarding standard commands with a treat. Start obedience training the day you get the dog. Build on the foundation of housebreaking. The younger the puppy, the shorter you must keep sessions, only a few repetitions at a time. A few minutes here and there, and by the time the puppy is 4 months old, people will be impressed with what a nice dog it is.

A Dogsey bookmark so you can come back for help as needed.

I didn't forget treats, shampoo, and bedding. I seldom use them.