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patandspud
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patandspud is offline  
Location: Essex, UK
Joined: Dec 2014
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21-12-2014, 08:43 PM
I'm going to investigate tomorrow all these good suggestions. I'm also going to phone a registered behavourist that i got from the channel 4 show, Dogs:Their secret lives. There was only one based in Essex, so hopefully she's good and can help. I'll let you know!
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Strangechilde
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02-01-2015, 10:00 PM
Originally Posted by patandspud View Post
Thank you for your suggestions. I'll keep trying, it's not the muzzle thats boring, it's walking alone in the dark with an excited dog that keeps pulling (and she's strong!) I used a canny collar for a while but am just using a training lead with two clips attached to the collar and muzzle. But i'm thinking of getting a halti which one of the trainers suggested. I vary the walk every day and i'll definitely keep trying to sort it out. As you say it might take a long time. Once again thanks to you all for your help.
I second your move to the Halti. I don't like the Canny Collar: it's annoying, fiddly, and chokes. The Halti is easy and cannot choke-- there's nothing around the throat to pull. Just be sure that you read the instructions, and if you're in any doubt, there are loads of videos on YouTube to show you how to make the best use of it. I have been using Haltis for years, currently with my non-pulling Akita, who cannot stand to have his collar handled. He finds the Halti comfortable, no bother at all.
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patandspud
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03-01-2015, 09:52 AM
I've bought the halti, but she managed to chew through it on only the second day! I've repaired it now but it would have been scary if i hadn't had the training lead clipped to her other collar. I'll have a look at the utube videos to see if i was putting it on wrong although i thought i'd followed the instructions. She definitely walked better with it though.
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Strangechilde
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03-01-2015, 11:19 AM
Oh dear! She really shouldn't be able to chew through it, if you've got it on right and it's the right size. You don't want it too big-- not only will she be able to get it in her mouth but it'll gwinch up into her eyes. If she's likely to break it, Mikki makes a very similar product you might be able to find-- it's not as robust, but it's about half the price, so you can afford to have an extra one lying about. But if she's difficult to fit, you might go for a Gentle Leader. It works on similar principles, but is fully adjustable around the snoot. That said, it's gwinchier than the Halti, and the clasp for the adjustable snoot-strap is a weak point.

Another that I've not used myself but that I've seen and heard good things about is the Dogmatic. It also has the advantage of coming in friendly-looking colours... Taji is quite happy with his Halti (I'm actually using the cheaper Mikki one, as he's about as pully as a teapot) but I'm tempted to get one just so it can be purple!
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Canny
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03-01-2015, 11:56 AM
Hi Pat

So sorry you're having this issue. I have had this experience with my dog (now passed) and although it took a long time I did eventually get him out of this behaviour. In fact the first time he ever greeted another dog in a normal, natural (bum sniffing way), I cried with relief.

While I agree that you can find satisfying and varied way to enjoy lead walks it would be great if you could get to a stage where you could be more relaxed about her behaviour.

I agree totally with sandgrubber, in that positive associations with other dogs couldbe built. However these would have be done under really controlled circumstances and I would recommend that you have a behaviourist to really assess the source of the issue and build the right programme for you and her.

If your vet can refer you then you could also be able to claim the fee from your insurance.

Wishing you all the best, I'm sure you'll get there,
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patandspud
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03-01-2015, 02:49 PM
Thank you for all your comments, it is really comforting to get this advice as you do feel like yours is the only uncontrollable dog!
I've taken to walking her along the sea front where there are lots of excited dogs on and off leads. She is still spinning as we pass them but as she is wearing the muzzle I just keep walking and say excuse my nutty rescue dog to the other dog owners who are looking at us as though I've trained a mad fighting dog and not the petrified gentle rescue dog that she is really. I'm also going to contact the behavourist next week (I thought she probably took Christmas off) so I'll let you know how we get on. Once again thanks for you advice and Happy New Year!
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Strangechilde
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04-01-2015, 11:50 PM
Haha, yours is *not* the only uncontrollable dog-- I'm sure you'll notice when you're able to take your eyes off your own for a few minutes! Do let us know how it goes-- we're all rooting for you. Root! Root!
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PONlady
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21-02-2015, 10:13 AM
Originally Posted by Strangechilde View Post
I second your move to the Halti. I don't like the Canny Collar: it's annoying, fiddly, and chokes. The Halti is easy and cannot choke-- there's nothing around the throat to pull. Just be sure that you read the instructions, and if you're in any doubt, there are loads of videos on YouTube to show you how to make the best use of it. I have been using Haltis for years, currently with my non-pulling Akita, who cannot stand to have his collar handled. He finds the Halti comfortable, no bother at all.
The Canny Collar chokes? How? I can't see how that's possible if it's used correctly . . The bit you pull on loops over the dog's nose and just lowers the dog's snout down if he pulls. Surely there's no pressure at all on the dog's neck or throat? But yes, it can be fiddly to use, especially in long-haired breeds, or one with a short snout, or dogs who are shy about hands near their mouths/noses.

I recommend the Perfect Fit harnesses - you use a double ended lead with it; one end attaches to the back of the harness, one end to the chest. If the dog pulls, it's just swivelled round to face you. Remarkably effective! Measure the dog and make sure you get a harness to fit perfectly - there are instructions on their website.

I highly recommend BAT (Behavioral Adjustment Training) for any kind of fear or aggression problem. It worked wonders for Esau when I didn't know what was causing his aggression (I know now it was fear of pain; he had developed arthritis). It took me a bit of reading and 1-1 advice from a behaviourist, for me to get the concept, but it really does work, and your dog becomes more close/trusting of you because of it - also, you start to feel more comfortable/trusting of the dog. win-win! The best thing is, once you understand the concept, you can use it anywhere, ie, on walks, new situations, etc.
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Meg
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21-02-2015, 10:58 AM
Originally Posted by patandspud View Post
Hi everyone.
Joined today while looking for a secure place to let my poor dog off the lead for a decent walk. Had her 6 months, she is gsd/rottie cross, very loving but dog aggressive. Walking in the dark is very boring! Tried 3 different training schools, but she is very obedient just terrified of other dogs, she doesn't wait for any aggression from other dogs, just attacks. Now walk her with a muzzle, but all pleasure of walking has gone. She is about 2 years old and full of energy, hence looking for somewhere to let her have a good run. I live in Essex, so any suggestions welcome. Pat
Hello Pat and welcome here is an article written by one of our members on Desensitising Shy and Nervous dogs which you may find helpful...

Desensitizing shy or nervous dogs
First of all, take your dog to a quiet place and simply sit and watch the world go by. Find somewhere that has some pedestrian traffic but that is not as busy and frantic as a shopping centre. A quiet park that does not have children and dogs rushing about, or outside a public building such as a library, museum, government offices, etc. would be good choices. Station yourself so that people passing by will not impinge upon your dog’s comfort zone. If you see that he is at all apprehensive then increase the distance. He should be able to see people but not be worried that they might come too close.
First of all, take your dog to a quiet place and simply sit and watch the world go by
Do not comfort him or reprimand him if he shows fear at any time. Instead you should talk to him in a perfectly normal voice - tell him a story, read aloud to him, sing a song, recite poetry or the multiplication tables - anything to let him know that you are not in the slightest bothered by strangers and that therefore there is no reason for him to be worried. It is very important at this stage not to allow anyone to approach too closely. If necessary explain that he is a dog in training. Do not be tempted to rush this stage of the program. You should carry it out over at least a week, and in as many locations as possible. Only when you are absolutely sure that your dog is quite relaxed and confident in this situation should you gradually move nearer to the pedestrian traffic

One you reach the point when people can pass fairly close by, and your dog does not display a negative reaction, give him a treat each time that he calmly accepts their presence. Do not give treats or praise if he shows any sign of nervousness as this, as well as a comforting voice, will only reinforce his notion that being scared of strangers is a correct response. Always be aware of your dog’s comfort zone and be prepared to increase the distance if he becomes stressed. Again, allow a week or two, possibly more, for him to become secure in the knowledge that passers-by are no threat.
this can be applied to fear aggression in dogs too, in this instance you would find a place like a park where other dogs can be viewed at a safe distance.


If you are looking for a behaviourist I would suggest using one which belongs to the APBC. You will need a referral from your vet and it may be covered by your pet insurance if your dog is insured.
APBC Members by Region | Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors


With regard to walks, do you have transport, if so I would buy an Ordnance Survey map and find some public footpaths through quiet spots/ fields unused by other dog walkers.
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Strangechilde
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21-02-2015, 11:59 AM
Originally Posted by PONlady View Post
The Canny Collar chokes? How? I can't see how that's possible if it's used correctly . .
With a Halti or a Gentle Leader, the collar part doesn't go around the dog's neck but around the back of the head. It doesn't even touch the neck. With a Canny, it does go around the neck. You're supposed to fit it high up, but given that it's a standard buckle collar, it's impossible to adjust it and it invariably falls down, and the snoot part fits very loosely, so you get choking. Perhaps if your dog is exactly the perfect size and shape for it, this won't be an issue, but I prefer to fit the collar to the dog, not the other way around! The Perfect Fit harness looks really good, and just the thing for a dog who is ridiculously strong for their size, like a JRT.

I had a look at BAT training and it looks great. I didn't do the official training with my shy dog, but I think I hit upon similar things just by accident. I'm doubly lucky-- I live in an area with lots of safe, open walks and wooded areas, and he could be trusted absolutely off lead, so every day I could put him in situations (we called these 'walkies') where he was in control and confident.

He also had work to do. He was a natural protector and loved to be around other dogs, so we would often walk with a local dog-walker and her group of eight. Laszlo would run circles around the party, making sure he knew where everyone was and that no one was getting into any trouble-- and if they did, he would let us know. I didn't teach him to do this! It was a vocation with him. He was focused and just really, really good at it.

Nervous dogs are continually buffeted with things they can't or don't want to do. If you give them things they can do, and can do well, it will build up their confidence in themselves. Sure, the horrifying things will still be difficult, but more achievable.
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