I can't believe all the phaffing around on here,buy this halti, use this,read this.I've posted a response on here which has worked for me.With regards to walking through the door before the dog IT WORKS.Every trainer and handler i've known uses this method,are they all wrong?

I cant really help since my dog is a nightmare he walks perfectly in his headcollar, and will walk prefectly to heel offlead in the house, garden and the park... but put a lead on him using his collar and he pulls like a train! he is gradually getting a wee bit better, and i can walk him ok but his lead is always at its full length and only goes slack when he stops for a sniff

But how can that work? walking through a door first doesnt magically let the dog know how its meant to walk... my old boy, always went through the door before us and he walked perfectly.

and, like you have posted what has worked for you, others are posting what works for them.

Yes, and those of us who have found headcollars help have posted what works for us. Not quite sure what your problem is with our posts.

Oh, and by the way, it was the Dogmatic that was recommended - not the Halti.

The Halti tends to ride up into the dog's eyes and is really uncomfortable, hence the sheer number of dogs you see wearing them who spend ages trying desperately to remove them!

If you're going to critique other posts, at least get the product we're recommending correct


RE going through the door first:

I've been doing this for seven months on a daily basis. It has made no difference whatsoever.

If it works for you, that's great. But as with most things, there is no one solution that suits all dogs.

*sigh* Ignore him, he's being a troll. He knows full well that we don't want to yank our dogs around on choke chains and is trying to provoke a response. Lets all ignore him and keep this on topic for the OP

Thanx krlyr, I read that info this morning and it makes a lot of sense.
Thanx Moon's Mum, Cain does seem to have certain similarities to Tia. I have been using the flexi for exactly the same reason so that she has a reasonable amount of safe exercise, but I know I can recall her in an instant. On her short "comfort" breaks (she has 4 a day of these as she won't use the garden) I keep her on her halti or her nylon/chain collar (acquired from training class). I only realised yesterday from reading through the other threads that my training lead should be double ended, it's not, it has a connector one end and a metal D ring on the other. What use that is for I have yet to discover (but again sold to me by training class!) What breed is Cain, he sounds like quite a powerful dog?

Cain is a GSD x Akita, weighs 45 kg and is VERY strong!!! Hence the Halti gives me control if he lunges, I physically can't hold him if he lunges on a collar.

The D ring on your lead may be so you can attach a poo bag holder or similar to it, or possibly so you can make the lead half the length by clipping one end to the other.

I didn't see the point in a double ended lead until I bought one. I love it, its so flexible

http://www.companyofanimals.co.uk/pr...-training-lead

You can use it as a single long lead, a single short lead, a double ended lead. There's various hoops in it where you can clip it to make it different lengths. I found being able to switch between pressure the Halti and the collar very useful, especially when trying to keep the lead loose - if he puts pressure on the halti, slack the lead and change pressure to the collar etc.

You can also use the lead for TTouch walking (google it) where you loop the lead loosely acros the chest then apply a gentle bit of pressure then release every time the dog pulls. You shouldn't be fighting against the dog, just a gentle pull back and release. The idea is it centres the dogs weight (as it's thrown unnaturally forward when pulling).

The Turid Rugass book does this method where when the lead goes tight you make a noise, like cluck yourtongue (pre-trained to understand it means follow) and coax them back the other way. This doesn't involve pulling your dog back the other way, just training your dog to follow you. Cain has responded so well to it, can't recommend the book enough

Also added security should the dog slip the head collar or flat collar as it has two attachment points. Also the lead is padded and very comfy if they do pull.

It's frustrating and tiring to walk a reactive pully dog but keep going, you will get there There are many methods and I think it's just a case of trying one, persisting long enough but if it's not working then don't be afraid to try something else. Find what works for you and your dog. Overall though you need to be really persistant though. Pulling = NEVER moving forward.

The original person that critisised my post provoked a response not i.I am just saying what works for me,hopefully they can sift through it and solve thier problem. Explain to me where i have mentioned yank and choke chain,put your glasses on to read my post moons mum.

Ok, I'll apologise for the choke chain bit, I got you muddled up with another poster. However pulling around/correcting the dog is still not a method I would use. I'd rather the dog wants to follow me than is forced to do so because it's uncomfortable.

I didn't condem your method at first although I did not agree as it's your dog and you can do what you want. However to post and say "what are you all doing? what a faff by trying to be kind to your dog? I tug my dog around, and I'M RIGHT!" was frankly pig headed of you, so it seems to me you are trying to wind people up when clearly the majority of people on this forum do not train by force.

everyone has various methods and are putting them forward, it's up to the OP to choose what she wants to do. It's not up to you to say "My method is right because it works and everyone elses is a wasteof time."

How rude

Please don't listen to the 'advice' of this presumtuous little man

Should have gone to Specsavers,you seem to be having difficulty understanding my posts.