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ClaireandDaisy
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30-01-2011, 04:18 PM
Originally Posted by markscs View Post
he split second the dog starts pulling,a quick tug to THE SIDE NOT BACK and turn and walk in the opposite direction.Remember TIMING,CONSISTENCY,PATIENCE.
Please don`t yank at your dog`s neck It isn`t necessary. Simply change direction. The dog will follow.
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tracypj
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30-01-2011, 04:20 PM
Duly removed
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JoedeeUK
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30-01-2011, 04:27 PM
Originally Posted by markscs View Post
Do you let the dog go out through the door before you and the same when you come back?You need to establish who the leader is here.Bin the flexi lead.Walk with a relaxed lead dont pull against the dog when he starts pulling you'll just exagerate the problem.The split second the dog starts pulling,a quick tug to THE SIDE NOT BACK and turn and walk in the opposite direction.Remember TIMING,CONSISTENCY,PATIENCE.

What has who goes first through a door got to do with dogs pulling on the lead ?? We are not our dog's leaders, we should be their guides(as in training)& providers. Dogs do know we are not dogs BTW
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Dobermann
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30-01-2011, 04:28 PM
Originally Posted by tedsui View Post
We rescued a GSD/Border Collie bitch in June 2010 and are still struggling to stop her pulling on her lead. I have tried a halti and a collar with a slip chain (purchased from dog training) and she still pulls.I would recommend the hi-control harness from Kumfi.com and stay away from the chains etc She is an absolute diamond in the house, does everything she is told, but when you take her out she is jekyll/hyde. She lunges at other dogs, won't come back on recall and constantly walks to the limit of her flexi lead,I wouldnt let her out on a flexi yet - another recomendation from me would be the Halti training lead (double ended lead) totally ignoring any commands I try to give her. I don't want to give up on her as she is only 4 years old but will she ever learn to obey? She will but sounds like you need to take a step back a bit and slow down... We had to stop dog training classes because she wouldn't stop barking when she wasn't being worked and being in a village hall which was a very confined area, was not helping my stress levels!
Seems like she is exciteable? And she would have picked up on your stress too, possibly making her worse.


One thing at a time.

If you are feeling stressed - turn around and go home. Better a short, succesful session/walk/training than a long one where the dog learns to ignore and you feel crap by the time you get in.

Have you tried going out more often for shorter sessions? I may help.

I found using the harness gave me more control and in turn stayed calmer - allowing me to guide him back and ignore/stop the lunging. I also stopped walking and 'walked into' him until he was in place before keeping going. Whenever he was next to me I would say (in calm, soothing tones, not hyped up exciteable) 'good' If she will take food outside you could treat then, also getting her a 'special toy' may help her to focus on you. I found that once they reach a certain pumped up level (or better still, when you see tham about to go up a bit) just turning round and calling it day helped. Each time you go out you should get a bit further.

Also, try to use some of her energy up when at home. If you have a garden run around like a looney with her - get physical energy out of her and make you the best thing ever into the bargain. Play tug etc. At home get her thinking a bit and learning the names of objects, scenting hidden toys out etc At the moment it sounds like outside is very exciting!! so try to even it out a bit.

You might want to teach a 'watch me' and a good 'leave' too. Spend plenty time working on this indoors and in the garden getting it fool proof befor you even attempt it outdoors though.

Dont give up on her yet!!

(ps. the reason that I say I wouldnt let her out on the flexi yet is that she cant learn to be next to you if she is up ahead on flexi. Plus whatever command you use for heel - if she hears it in the flexi position thats what she will think it means.
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JoedeeUK
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30-01-2011, 04:30 PM
Originally Posted by tracypj View Post
Tedsui,

We tend to use a harness as this doesn't damage the dog's throat when they pull, and I find the dog easier to manage.
What I do, is when the dog pulls and is trying to pull me towards whatever they want to see, and isn't repsonding, I will turn and walk in the other direction. If they pull to the left, I pull and walk to the right, if they pull round behind me, I carry on walking forward and take no cr*p off them.
I also use the commands of 'what's this?' and 'this way!' in an excited tone. As long as I'm appearing to be doing something more exciting than they are it works.

To get them to walk to heel, I use the 'heel' command and position them where I want. When they pass my knee, I pull them back and state it again. If they still won't listen and I'm losing patience, I'll get them by the scruff and give them a quick shake, repeating 'heel'. This doesn't hurt them and shows them who's boss, as their mum would do this to put them in their place................................................... .....

T xx

Using a harness alone means you have no control of the direction the dogs is going in & it doesn't actually stop the dog pulling & they can be huirt by pulling into a harness

You seem to be advocating a lot of pulling & physical force being used ?? Have you never taught loose lead walking ?
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Dobermann
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30-01-2011, 04:35 PM
Originally Posted by shaunclemens View Post
i have same problem with my dog she just lunges randomly. i use a full choker collar and when she goes to far ahead yank the lead towards my knee like my trainer said to but she just pulls straight away.
Then it isnt working, try the dogmatic headcollar or the kumfi harness. Kinder and more effective. These are only tools though, they only aid you while you train, not the solution. Far kinder than a choke chain though and youll probably get better results.
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Dobermann
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30-01-2011, 04:37 PM
Jodee - I have found a harness a great help, although more to hold the top or guide him back.....(I use the one that attaches at the front)

edit - mind you I have seen harnesses that I wouldnt put near him either....

edit -
To get them to walk to heel, I use the 'heel' command and position them where I want. When they pass my knee, I pull them back and state it again. If they still won't listen and I'm losing patience, I'll get them by the scruff and give them a quick shake, repeating 'heel'. This doesn't hurt them and shows them who's boss, as their mum would do this to put them in their place
I know each to thier own but I really dont think its a good idea. I think that could be negative and intimidating - shaking them whilst they are in heel position......you want them to think thats a great place to be IMHO
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JoedeeUK
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30-01-2011, 04:38 PM
Originally Posted by shaunclemens View Post
........................... is the clicker training method good to use? i have never used this and just read on it now.
Clicker training is a method that makes the dog use it's brain & learn what is rewarding behaviour. !5 minutes of clicking training is as tiring for a dog as 45 minutes walking

You do need to learn to get the timing of the clicker right & how to use it.

Karen Pryor has a website here & her books are excellent
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JoedeeUK
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30-01-2011, 04:40 PM
Originally Posted by Dobermann View Post
Jodee - I have found a harness a great help, although more to hold the top or guide him back.....(I use the one that attaches at the front)

edit - mind you I have seen harnesses that I wouldnt put near him either....
In the UK you are required to have a collar on your dog whilst in a public place(which BTW includes your car)& if a harness is used on it's own you have no control whatsoever over the dogs head & neck & hence no "steering" only "brakes". They are only an aid & once removed you have not solved the problem od the dog pulling
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Pilgrim
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30-01-2011, 04:41 PM
Originally Posted by tracypj View Post
Tedsui,

We tend to use a harness as this doesn't damage the dog's throat when they pull, and I find the dog easier to manage.

What I do, is when the dog pulls and is trying to pull me towards whatever they want to see, and isn't repsonding, I will turn and walk in the other direction. If they pull to the left, I pull and walk to the right, if they pull round behind me, I carry on walking forward and take no cr*p off them.

I also use the commands of 'what's this?' and 'this way!' in an excited tone. As long as I'm appearing to be doing something more exciting than they are it works.

To get them to walk to heel, I use the 'heel' command and position them where I want. When they pass my knee, I pull them back and state it again. If they still won't listen and I'm losing patience, I'll get them by the scruff and give them a quick shake, repeating 'heel'. This doesn't hurt them and shows them who's boss, as their mum would do this to put them in their place.

With lunging, I tend to either get the dog to sit calmly when another dog approaches, and reward and praise when they sit still. If they are creating and barking, I simply walk past, controlling them, not saying a word - it's not interesting, therefore not worth their or my efforts.

With regards to recall, have you tried whistle training?

Being a collie/GSD cross I would imagine your dog needs a lot of mental stimulation, and when's she's been at training things haven't been happening fast enough for her. Barking is also a way of getting you to do her bidding. Distraction again could possibly work.

Shaun,

I'm also in agreement with the others. Imagine having something metal which contricts your throat, then having that yanked even tighter on occasions. Not pleasant, and not conductive to a nice walk if pain is on the cards. Sorry.

T xx
Oh dear to the bit in bold
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