If she barks when you get the clicker out you can tackle this in different ways.

At the very first sound of noise, you can put the clicker away.

This might result in an extinction burst but that is normal ie it will get worse before it gets better.

Alternatively, you can just wear the clicker all the time on a wrist lanyard or round your neck so that it becomes part of the furniture and is visible when you do NOTHING with the dog.

Same with the food. Have treat boxes around but not accessible, and do not use them.

Same principle as getting lead out, dog barks, you go and sit down.

HTH

ps I still think 11 minutes is too long in one session

I use clicker training with my dogs too, they are very quick to learn. I agree short sessions are best, without interruptions and only work on one behaviour in a session.

I must try the tv/maltesers as I could do with improving my speed, it could take some time!

Absolutely brilliant. Watched one, will watch the rest when i get home.

I knew a lady who rescued a BC, which barked nearly, all of the time. Within a week, the lady had taught it to "speak " on command, using a clicker. so every time there was a short silence, she would say "speak" click and treat. It was brilliant to see the dog work it out.

If I think they are getting too frustrated I revert to a known behaviour so they get success and then break down the new one a bit more.

I had real problems getting Etta to lift one paw then the other at a distance but am getting better results by sending her to a hula hoop and getting the sit inside that and then trying the paws. She still finds it hard but understands not to come out of the hoop.

I do make sure I have all the basics well proofed everywhere before I start any kind of HTM work. My most important thing is the down at a distance so I work hard on that and chuck balls etc to proof it.

Re the barking---there is a danger that the dog will bark deliberately to get a treat, you have to be careful to only reward when you have cued the behaviour. Also from experience cueing a behaviour doesnt always get rid of it when you don't want it!

rune

It's a good idea to have the clicker and treats with you all the time as SB says. That way you can reduce your training sessions to perhaps 3 x 4 minutes per day as and when it's convenient. The dog will never know when the next session is going to start.

So, I got home today and fastened my clicker to me whilst Bailiie was watching, then I continued what I was doing and she went back to her chew stick.
I got some treats out ready and put them close to where we were doing the training and went back to making tea.

Once tea was almost done, I walked to the living room, got comfy with the book out (I'm aiming to have her with all four paws on the book at the same time ) and the egg timer (!) and Bailiie came in.
She stood on the book with two paws and was clicked and rewarded. We continued in this manner.
It was much better and we finished on a high, she won a jackpot and was told we were "all done"; I put everything away except for leaving my clicker attached and we've had a calm evening since.

She only barked a couple of times today, which was a huge improvement and we trained for just 5 minutes.

So, thanks SB for that great advice

Thank you for all these little tips.
It'll probably be easier at the weekend for me as I'll be able to do as suggested, 3 x 4/5 minutes at my convenience. It's difficult to fit 3 sessions in when you only get home at 5ish
Bailiie will probably enjoy it more too, and as you say Maxine, she'll never know when it will be

Well done! Keep it up!

Yep - We have yowling and pawing as a result of that

Love clicker training.. in the last two nights we have worked on kiss (gross but a challenge from my friend to teach it in one session), and take off socks and bring slippers.

Kestral loves the clicker and will even try and fetch it to encourage a session!