... and just to add to what Claire has said there, getting out of the car is also a good place to train the "wait" command before you say ok for them to jump out with that door open. Take every little opportunity you have to use every command and it all clicks into place if you're consistent with it each time.

Ok ive had a good think about Tobys training so far, and although we are not far into our training i think its back to basics.
He does learn very quickly, but i think i try and jump too far ahead, then i get frustrated because he is not doing what i want him to, totally my fault.
Ive had a look at kelpup you tube clicker training and looked at the very basics.
So while he was calm i first held a treat in my hand and clicked and gave him the treat when he stopped trying to take it by force and left it alone.
Then we did touch. He really enjoyed it and so did i. so we will concentrate on that for the moment.
I will appologise in advance i can see me being here often picking your brains.
Thanks for the advice so far
claire

I have nothing constructive to add but would like to wish you luck. My youngest 2 dogs are both almost 15 months old so they are still training whereas the boys at 3 and 2 1/2 years old revise their training rather than learning much more new stuff.

I do remember though how frustrating it can be when they just don't seem to grasp it or they think it's far more fun to roll over for a belly rub than to sit and wait, for example, as commanded.

The hard work WILL pay off though - I can guarantee that for you at least. Zane (3 years old) is trained (almost fully) as an assistance dog, Yiannis (2 1/2 years old) will do anything I ask of him and even the girls will do most things when asked.

Althogh as they're still very young they do have their moments. For example - sit and wait or stay does not mean let's jump all over Mom, slobber down her top an hour before a job interview and wait until she gets changed before doing it again and making nice paw print patterns everywhere.

that's the ticket, one thing at a time

I know they can sometimes rush you a bit at training, but that's because they have to move on to fit all the basics into the 6 weeks or whatever course you're on, so they give you the week to practice the new command you learned that week, so just stick with what you're on for that week alone, and at every opportunity just use what you've already learned at every given opportunity. Have fun!

As others have written this is very "Old school force"method.


That's not really the right way to clicker train, the clicker is the dogs cue that a reward is coming after a behaviour.

Using it to teach a sit on command(dogs don't have to be trained to actually sit, they do that naturally otherwise they would be stood up or laid down all the time ) I would start by clicking as the dog starts to sit & rewarding with no command, as the dog learns the click means reward it will"offer"the behaviour again & eventually you click when he sits & then treat. This can be taught by luring the dog into a sit by moving the treat backwards over it's head & clicking & treating as the dog sits.

I haven't made a dog sit using physical"force"(no matter how gentle)since the early 1960s when I trained a dog who have been manhandled by a "professional"dog trainer

Cheers guys thanks for the tips, I dont think i will be carrying on with the training classes once i have finished the coarse.
I realise now things have to be rushed, to complete within the 6 weeks, but that isnt helping me really, its making me want to jump ahead to soon and not giving us enough time to master each command.

The key to dog training is to remember that dogs are learning 24/7 NOT just when YOU have decided you are going to train!

That is why, when they are small, you have to consider WHAT it is they are actually learning (and practising) all the time....................so you can PREVENT bad habits getting started!

Dogs do not grow OUT of things, but INTO them!

The behaviour was the not grabbing----so the dog was clicked for that and then rewarded.

That sounds right to me.

rune

I started with that one because he does try to be forcefull when there are treats about, no matter what their value.
This seems to help.

It is something I teach clients with children. Children are always running about with food in their hand and also they tend to hold out hands to sniff when they meet strange dogs (inherited from parents),

In order to prevent dogs nipping at fingers, I get clients to deliberately hold food in their fist and let the dog mug them for it. As SOON as the dog moves back from the hand (it will eventually as its previous strategy has not worked and it is working out the next one) you click and then open your hand for the dog to take the food from your PALM.

Progress with a "crane hand" ie food held between the thumb and forefinger and repeat, when dog moves back (does not have to sit or lie down just choose to move back) click and again offer food from palm of hand.

This has two essential learning outcomes:

Food will never be forthcoming if you mug
Food will only ever come from flat of hand

this minimises food stealing and fingers getting nipped!


Useful for old people too who are frail and who have very fragile skin, which is what I recommend for PAT dogs who may be offered food on their visits