The last place to train heelwork is if you've got limited time, I never ask for heel unless I know I can get it, in fact I never ask for anything unless I know the dog will respond.

Headcollars can be abused just like collars can, its not about putting one on and hoping its going to teach a dog not to pull, because a puller will pull on a headcollar ora normal collar,

The amount of dogs you see choking the life out of themselves on a normal collar and lead (funny enough its usually collies and springers) walking down the road with a handler being pulled behind them , is equally as harmful to the dog as a misused headcollar that rides up the dogs nose into his eyes , the dog is still pulling and will still pull unless its taught not to.

In saying that the head collar can give you a little more control if and when its needed, I don`t like haltis , they never seem to sit right on a dogs head, I DO like and use (on occasion) "the dogmatic" , they seem to fit better and don`t ride and dig into eyes... that said if the dog still pulls they will be uncomfortable.

I like to use a headcollar with a double ended "halti" lead, fixing one end to the normal collar and the other to the headcollar, only using the headcollar, when and if its needed.

Up to 18 mths ago I had 2 Boxers, that could be walked together on a lead and collar, (I am only 5ft) and because I have spent time with each dog, teaching them to walk nicely on collar and lead, its never really been a problem, BUT I did/do use the dogmatic on occasion, when we go to vets, or in confined spaces, it just gives me an added extra to control an active dog.

In saying that, if you do have a puller and a halti makes life easier for you on walks, then its better to use one, than not take the dog out at all, but you can still use the halti/headcollar to teach a dog to walk nicely....by using the double ended lead.


There is someone near me, who owns a lovely Weimaraner, have watched her walking this girl from a very young pup, and ALWAYS on a halti, the dog is now around 2 yrs old, still on a halti and still pulling, if they had only took the time when dog was a pup to train her,


Its like any tool you use, they can be used correctly and to benefit you , OR they can be abused,

I use them on one of my dogs, but I dont like using them, and my dog doesnt like wearing them. I have several different headcollars, including a Dogmatic and has already been pointed out, he still pulls like a train because I have taught him no different.

Pure laziness on my part because my dogs are off lead 95% of the time and when they are on lead it's only for a short time so my motivation to teach him to walk nicely has always been low. And, given the fact with this particular dog, loose lead walking will always be a chore and will be a constant battle with him, I just cant be bothered considering how little time they spend on a lead.

So, as a quick fix problem I use a headcollar.

You need to find a good class that will teach you more than your dog. I used to hate training heelwork, but once you actually learn the handling skills to be able to train it effectively, and how to make it fun for you and the dog, it becomes a lot easier.

The last place to train heelwork is if you've got limited time, I never ask for heel unless I know I can get it, in fact I never ask for anything unless I know the dog will respond. At the moment I'm training the flatcoat's off lead heelwork, it's fairly informal for gundog stuff, they don't have to be glued to your leg.

My dog isn't a 'puller' but walks at the end of his lead. I'm not even considering a halti because a) my problem isn't severe b) I feel if my dog suddenly lunges I would have fairly good control given my own strength and c) I've not seen a happy dog on one or one used properly so have a bad view.

If I saw one used properly then maybe my views would be different!

Tarimoor's comment above describes us at the moment though. This is my own failing but in the mornings I don't have a lot of time to train heel as I want to get Riley walked and tired out before I go to work.
Means lead training is taking a very long time compared to everything else and it is BORING for me compared to other training exercises we do! But got to be done!!!!

Hi - absolutely understand your reasoning, mine also charges up the side of banks if he thinks there's cat up there and has caught me unawares a few times. He's not a huge dog but very strong.

A neighbour of mine is in the services and due to go to Afghanistan when his bicep was severely injured by his black labrador (on a lead) attempting to charge off after a squirrel.

Just wanted to check with you is a dogmatic the same as a control headcontroller sold in Pets at Home?

Hi Tarimoor

Off topic slightly but I did take him to training but it wasn't a good experience. He became very very frustrated at the waiting around. Their solution to pulling was "checking" which I didn't like at all, one woman bought along her small border terrier and checked him visciously all the time, it was grotesque.

The trainer spent a lot of time on getting our dogs to go down and stay down or sit and stay sitting - for the life of me Icouldn't see the point and had a long discussion on here about that very thing - some agreed some disagreed, but that's Dogsey for you.

He is a very lonesome dog - he doesn't like other dogs and being in a relatively confined space, on a short lead, hanging around - I think did him more harm than good. I won't take him again.

I do the training that's on the Dog's Trust website - walking ahead and stopping when he pulls and stepping back, but now he thinks it's part of the routine, I don't think he links the sudden stopping and returning to his pulling.

I will try the clicker method and stick to it - and like you say do it when I've time and there's no pressure on him or I.