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Location: Glasgow, UK
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 810
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Originally Posted by
Lizzy23
PS On tHe CM Thing how do you excert calm assertive energy, over a dog who is too far away to interact with, and who a nudge or a tap or whatever will damage all the work you have done building her confidence?
To me as its been said in the other thread CM is all about domination, how do you impose that domination in recall training, especially with a nervy dog, who at the beginning if escaped wouldn't come within 20yrds.
Rune your right sometimes you just look at a dog and know that they are going to Naff, had it with a few of the fosters, however i have also had dogs on foster that are supposed to have dodgy recall which have been fine when out with mine
I suppose the answer to that is that if your relationship with your dog is good then the dog will be watching you at all times and will want to respond to you. Can't help you on going about developing that relationship his way though. I would like to hear him talk about it though. I hunted high and low for info from him when our first Beagle was young.
Some perhaps relevant tips from him though. He advised giving a sniffing obsessed Beagle some nose work to do. He explained that this would satisfy the urge and make them more manageable.
Very many beagle experts recommend never letting a beagle off-lead because they can't resist following their noses. However, pack hounds are walked in large numbers (perhaps 50) along roads with just the pack master and one helper. I'm told by a friend that visited one pack that they have tremendous control over the hounds. For example, at feeding time the pack master was able to tell the fatter dogs to stop eating and let the skinny ones get extra food. All I know about their training is that young, inexperienced hounds are tied to an experienced dog to learn the ropes. It is forced to obey commands as it is physically bound to the older dog.
Anyway, some tips from me based upon my experience.
We have a reliable emergency recall. It always works. But it's not much practical use really. You'd have to call them 200 times in a walk and it'd soon loose it's power. We used to have a reliable 'come' too, but it stopped working because we had to use it too much.
So now we're working on keeping their attention on us so that we don't need to use recall. With just a little bit of work we're now at a stage where we can walk around the park with the dogs glued to our sides live velcro dogs! And believe it or not the secret was ignoring them - trying to be exciting didn't work, yet the moment we ignore them they are DESPERATE to please! You wouldn't believe the lengths we used to go to in order to be exciting to our dogs - all we achieved was making them so excited and wound up that they ran off to let off steam!!!
The approach we now use was recommended by our agility teacher. Try it - you might be pleasantly surprised.
I'm assuming your dog will eat treats at home? If not wait until he's really hungry and use his food.
Next time she's in the garden (or the lounge if the garden is to exciting) doing her own thing take 6 pieces of his favorite food and go out and join her. Wander around completely ignoring her. Be patient. Eventually she'll wander over. Give her a treat but otherwise continue to ignore her. Keep walking. In time she'll start to follow. Reward her for this. Once you've got her attention keep changing direction. Make her work harder to get a reward. When she's really doing well perhaps introduce a 'sit' and continue walking. Use a release word 'OK' for example. Now OK just means "you're released from the command - do what you want" but she'll almost certainly run to you. This soon becomes a good 'roundabout' way of getting your dog to come to you without actually telling them to!
Anyway, the idea it so keep building up a more and more complex routine. Always ignore other than to give a basic command. And make them work harder and harder for that treat. Don't lure or help - just make them use that brain to figure out how to release the treat.
Very slowly take your routine out to more and more stimulating places. Practice twice a day.
It sounds lame, I know. But it really is working with ours. They ignore other dogs, people, each other, scents. BUT so far we're only taken it on the road to a dog enclosure and one park. Our main problem was that they stay so close that they weren't getting enough exercise so we put a fetch game and a chase game into the routine. Fetch and Chase are both good roundabout ways of getting your dogs to you with out doing to death your recall command. Although I can honestly say that they rarely leave our sides unless we tell them to. (It would of course be different in open country, but I see no reason why we shouldn't have control there too if we build up gradually).