How many poo's should a 5 month pup do in 1 day?

Bit of back ground as i am new to this site "sorry if this is in the wrong section"
We got Diesel when he was 5 weeks old unexpectedly when someone wanted to get rid of there pups one way or another he was very tiny but was in good health.
I know the food that i am feeding him at the moment isn't all that great for him "bakers" but to get to many brands of food round here so i would like to know what is good to be feeding him? I can buy online.
He is a boxer cross we belive crossed with a staff, the problem were having is which i don't know if its down to his food or not, but he poos 10 times a day really not joking, its nice and normal looking its not just little poos its full sized dog poop, he eats 2-3 mug fulls of dry bakers complete puppy food twice a day but always seems hungry his been to the vets for a health check so no worms ect, any ideas?

It will vary from dog to dog - the most common culprit of excessive poos is a cheap food full of fillers. Bakers will almost definately, 99.9999% be the cause here!
I used to work in petshops and we had one customer come in wanting to switch foods. I was showing him all the premium foods, Nutro, James Wellbeloved, etc. and he was a bit shocked at the price compared to the Bakers he was feeding. However, I grabbed a bag of Bakers and a bag of JWB food and showed him the feeding guidelines - where Bakers was telling him to feed 6 cups a day, the JWB equivelant was recommending 2 cups for his dog's size! Pricewise it actually made it cheaper - OK, the Bakers was half the price, but he was feeding 3 times as much!
So you will find that Bakers is full of lots of filler ingredients like cheap grains, which dogs struggle to digest (and it just ends up going all the way through and out the other end), what goes in must come out, and when the food is hard to digest, more of it is going to come out as poo than as burnt off calories. Switch (gradually) onto a better quality kibble and not only will you be doing a lot less poo-picking, you may find a bit more money in your bank account too! Not to mention he'll probably feel less hungry on a food that his tummy can digest more easily.
I personally raw-feed so I'm not up to date on the best kibbles but there are lots of threads on here that may help, or someone will hopefully be along with some recommendations soon

Edit: Ingredients for Bakers Puppy (beef)
Ingredient(s):

Cereals, Meat and Animal Derivatives (min. 4% Fresh Meat in the Soft Moist Kernel, min. 4% Beef in the Brown Kernel), Vegetable Protein Extracts, Oils and Fats, Various Sugars, Derivatives of Vegetable Origin, Minerals, Vegetables (min. 4% Vegetables in the Green and Yellow Kernels). with Antioxidants, Coloured with and Preserved with EC Additives

You're basically feeding your dog a bag of cereals with a very small amount of meat (if there's only 4% in only a couple of the biscuits (I can see 5 different shapes?), that's about 60g of meat in the whole 2kg bag!), then various fats, sugars and some vegetables. Not a very natural diet for a dog so it's no surprise they don't digest much of it.

Thanks for your reply, i know bakers isn't any good which is why i want to change his food anyway, but wanted to make sure that it was his food for making him poop so much, thank you, I'm not bothered about what the price of food is, i just don't want to spend heaps on one that isn't going to be any better then bakers if that makes sense? what things should i avoid when looking for foods?

Hopefully someone will come along with brand names, but some generic rules I would say

The ingredients list - the shorter the better! Sometimes it seems like some foods contain more chemicals, preservatives and additives than they do real food!

Meat - make sure meat is at the top of the list (ingredients are listed by quantity, from highest to lowest). This is the ingredients as they go in though, so bear in mind that "Chicken" or "Lamb" for example, refers to a fresh whole chicken or whole bits of lamb, so once the food is dehydrated, you lose a lot of that chicken or lamb because lots of it is water. A whole chicken is about 60% water, so if a food claims to be 20% "chicken", that's 20% by weight before processing, in the dry kibble bag there will only be about 160g per 2kg. However, "chicken meal" refers to dry chicken - so if they say there's 20% chicken meal in there, then there really will be 20% left post-production, so there will be 400g chicken per 2kg. Meat meal is slightly more processed than fresh meat though, so there's swings and roundabouts. Also look out for things like "meat by-products" - this means feet, wings, etc. as well as muscle meat. It's not harmful to your dog but it means you're paying for all these cheap bits of animals rather than for pure meat.

Grains - grains can be a common cause of allergies and intolerances so lots of people like to avoid them. They don't always cause problems though so you can give them a try - just try to avoid the cheaper grains like maize, which are there to bulk out a food rather than provide much nutritional value. If you want to cut out grains then there are dry foods that use alternative carb sources, such as potato.

Fats, sugars and salts - like kids, dogs love fatty, sugary, salty foods. Cheap food is full of these because the dog loves them, so the owner keeps feeding their dog this "great" food that they love. Not quite logical - lots of kids love McDonalds but it wouldn't be a very nutritional or healthy diet long-term. Watch out for these in the ingredients. You may find that your dog doesn't seem so keen on a new food after having been on Bakers, because a healthier food will taste blander, but keep perservering as their taste buds will adapt.

Quality - you get what you pay for, but remember that cheap foods can be false economy. Like my Bakers example - at £20 a bag, it seems like one of the cheapest foods available. But if you're feeding 3 times the amount of cheap food compared to a premium food that's only twice the price, the "cheap" food is costing you more! Better quality foods are more digestible so you feed less. And not only do you have the initial expense of food, but also remember that diet plays a big part in health - a dog on a healthier diet will cost you less in vet fees. That "cheap" food may seem cheap now, but when it causes all your dog's teeth to decay because of all the sugar in it, it will take its toll on your bank balance.

Iv'e heared people on here go on about how good the brand 'Fish for dogs' is.
I personally feed raw, I get most of mine from a very nice butcher, (lungs, hearts, bones, & occasionally meat past human consumption)
But there are a few web sites that specialise in suppling raw meat, bones,offal, etc. Which is fantastic if you have a spare chest freezer laying around. Landywoods, is one ...there are a few more but I can't remember them.

In my experiance raw is the best for little poos, as most of what goes in is digested propperly.

Thank you krlyr for the sort of things to avoid and what things to look for when choseing

Shani, My partner said about a raw meat diet but i don't know to much about that either my thoughts were would the raw diet make him want to eat my cat?? i know it probley wouldn't but it worries me a little, and plus i wouldn't know what things were ok to feed and what bones were ok to give etc etc.
Could i do half and half raw and dry?
Thanks again for everyones feedback on this.

Raw takes a little research so definately don't jump on the raw band wagon for the sake of it. Perhaps switch him to a good kibble for now and research raw carefully and decide if it's for you (well, not you personally.. )
There are lots of myths about raw and one of them is that it gives dogs a "blood lust" - totally false! I know of several raw feeders who feed their dogs whole, raw rabbit yet have houserabbits that the dogs are totally fine around. Dogs know the difference between dinner and household members just fine IMO (well, mine would eat their small furry housemates but they would've done that before being fed raw ).
Some people do feed part raw, part dry. It is recommended that you don't mix the two in the same meal though, but lots of people give one for breakfast and the other for dinner. Personally I'm an all-or-nothing kind of person and it kind of defeated the point for me if I was to continue feeding commercial foods regularly, but for some, they like the backup of having a complete commercial food just incase their raw diet wasn't 100% balanced.
If you want to look into raw then there are loads of threads on the forum and loads of articles online. The book "Give your dog a bone" by Ian Billinghurst comes well recommended, and the Yahoo group "BritBarf" is worth signing up to. There's nothing wrong with sticking to a good commercial food if it suits your dog though

[QUOTE=krlyr;2193873]Raw takes a little research so definately don't jump on the raw band wagon for the sake of it. Perhaps switch him to a good kibble for now and research raw carefully and decide if it's for you (well, not you personally.. )

Lol, krlyr is right, Raw feedind does take a bit of research, & a strong stomach on your part.
In the past I have fostered a jack russel, she was fed on kibble but still killed a neighbours pet rabbit & then two of my rabbits when I looked after her (she knocked down a baby gate & managed to get the hutch open) Should have signed her up for Kripton factor
But My Muppet is fed on raw & when he saw some bunnys he settled down beside them & looked after them.

Yea i will deffently research it first before changing to raw, I have a strong stomach so that isn't a problem.
Thank you both for your advice, will let you know how i get on.