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Cadiann731
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Cadiann731 is offline  
Location: Texas, US
Joined: Jan 2015
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Female 
 
27-01-2015, 10:40 PM

Lhasa Apso with biting and barking issues

We have a 3 year old female Lhasa Apso. She has biting and barking issues. She bites us (my mother, my two 12 year old sisters, and me) and barks like crazy at every little noise, especially when someone is at the door. She has gone as far as to chase a person out of our house as they were leaving.

We usually pick her up or put her in another room when people are at the door or coming to visit, so she can calm down before letting her back down/out again. This seems to work as far as the chasing, but the barking hasn't stopped. However, this isn't what we're mostly concerned about. It's the biting.

The biting has been going on for about two years and has just progressively become more of a problem. I'm not sure what you believe, but I know what I believe and I'm not looking to be told I'm wrong or crazy. One of the houses we moved into two years ago was haunted. My dog has been physically kicked out of her dog bed before by some invisible force, causing her to yelp. She would bark at things we couldn't see, chase things, and growl. She has not been right since.

After a year, we moved out of that house and into a new one, which was calmer. However, it didn't calm her down. She seemed paranoid and would still bark at everything she heard. She became fearful of us, if she was resting somewhere (against the couch, or in the corner in her bed) and we would go to pick her up. She would snap. I've since put a stop to cornering her, and taught my sisters to call her before picking her up. That worked for a while, until now.

We moved back in September for my step father's new job half way across the country. We're in a larger house with a larger yard, and we got a puppy to play with her. The puppy is a 4 month old female German Shepherd/Lab mix. They get along great. They play and wrestle all the time. Sometimes the Lhasa will snap at her if the puppy is getting annoying, but I've been observing them enough to know when the Lhasa is done playing to break them up.

I believe my Lhasa is resource guarding. I was on another forum, asking for help on this before and basically, I was told that we shouldn't have pets if we can't "properly care for them" and if we can't see the danger we're putting people in by allowing her to snap at them, we shouldn't have her. Honestly, I feel very attacked. We are doing everything we can at the moment. Money is tight. My step father abandoned us after bringing us out here, and now we have to scrounge up enough money to pay the rent and the bills. Giving them up is not an option. All the shelters in our area are at full capacity, and we really don't want to give them up. People on the other forum were saying that she needs to see a vet because she is in pain and lashing out in self defense, but we can't afford to take her to the vet right now, and honestly, I really doubt she's in pain. She doesn't act like it. She'll run and jump and play just fine.

She only snaps and bites in situations where she would be resource guarding. She's allowed on the furniture. She will be laying on the couch but we need her to move for whatever reason and we go to gently push her or move her, and she snaps. She would be laying in her bed or on the floor and we need her to go outside or into another room, and she will snap when we go to pick her up. She snaps when I try to move her when she is on my bed, and I need to adjust my legs to get comfortable in order to sleep. She does the same thing to my mother. She bit my mom and drew blood the other day when my mom tried to take a bone the Lhasa stole from the puppy. She had her own, but wanted the puppy's. Mom tried to take it back from her and got bit. The Lhasa was laying in bed with my sisters in their room and she jumped down. My sister went to get her, because she can't jump back up on her own, and she snapped and bit my sister's face. She barks, growls, and snaps at people/strangers when they go to touch one of us. She bit my sisters' friend's 7 year old sister. Granted, the girl had backed the dog into a corner and wouldn't leave her alone when we asked her to, but still. This biting is not okay.

Otherwise, she's fine from what we can tell. She doesn't come when called sometimes and she will cower when she does finally come to us (after we use a stern tone with her), she has separation anxiety and will poop in the house sometimes when we're gone, she barks at the door when people are there, and she bites, but other than that, she behaves. She knows basic commands and obeys, she has plenty of toys, goes outside frequently, she has plenty of beds, constant water, fed twice a day, and she gets plenty of attention. She is very loved. But the biting is something we don't know how to deal with.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as long as it doesn't involve getting rid of her. We are not giving her up. We are doing the best we can given the circumstances we are now stuck with. In May, we are moving in with my biological dad and money will be okay again. It's just from now until then that money will be tight, and we cannot take her to the vet.

If there's any information I forgot to include, please feel free to ask. Thank you in advance.
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Timber-
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28-01-2015, 08:06 PM
I would start with NILF and basically start from scratch with your dog, http://www.animalfarmfoundation.org/pages/NILF

She has been able to get away with what she wants and is now set in her ways.

Teach her the leave it command and give something better as a reward when she lets go. Does she like to play tug? I think that would be the easiest way to teach her leave it and not getting bit and aggravating her. Make sure you find something that is simply irresistible and only use it during training so it keeps values. You can also alternate between several tasty treats so she doesn't got bored.

Keep a loose leash on her all the time so you can easily distract her without getting bit. No pulling or jerking. Does she know the off command or what ever you use to get her off the furniture? She needs a strong understanding of the command and reinforce it with treats or whatever she loves. That ay there is no need for physical removing of the dog. I would personally take away all privileges, such as being on furniture, laps, arms, etc, just her dog bed and such.

As for the bone, give chew toys/treats separately, crated or gated off in another room. By teaching her the leave it command, it will be much easier to have her let go of whatever she has that she shouldn't. That way you are not the one taking it away from her, but her giving it back to you in turn turning off her resource guarding.

When visitors are over I would crate her or have her in another room, not in your arms, until you can address her behaviours towards you and your family first.

I guess the best way of saying it is that she needs to be taught to be the one to do things for you willingly, than being forced to what she doesn't want to do. Turn the tables and have her believe she is doing you a favour, when in reality you are getting what you need indirectly.

Team work is essential in having a healthy loving bond.
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SarahJade
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29-01-2015, 05:15 PM
I'm going to be honest here and I hope it doesn't upset you, there is no blame or judgement, just my thoughts on what you have said. She sounds like a scared, confused little dog. One of the house moves seems to have upset you and her, I'm not sure I believe in ghosts, but it seems something was going on. And it's likely the moves after haven't helped her feel safe.
I also think she is a very very lucky dog to have a family that are so willing and ready to stick by her. The only time I would suggest giving her up is if you and your family weren't willing or able to put in the time and training/work she requires to make her happy again. And even then it would have to be to someone who could give her what she needed. A lot of rescue centres just don't have the time or resources to give to a dog like this and would have her PTS as rehoming would be deemed too dangerous (not all rehoming centres are like this, but a lot are).

Timber is right, you need to go back to basics. A house line (a very light, long lead) is a great way to reduce stress when you need her to move at any point (off furniture, into another room ect). My method would be for everyone to have a pocket full of treats all the time, if you need her to move or come to you stand at least a few feet away, with nothing blocking her path and ask her to go where you want her to, and gently toss a treat that direction. If she goes the right way tell her she's a clever girl in a happy but calm voice (not giddy!) and gently toss her another treat. If she doesn't go pick up the house line, ask her again to move, use gestures, walk that way and gently guide her with the line, don't drag, you want her to follow and not struggle. It might seem like a bribe but it is the basics of lure training. So for example you might need her to move so you can get comfortable in bed, give her room to get off the bed if she feels uncomfortable, don't touch her in anyway, toss a treat where you want her to go and give her to the count of 10 (in your head slowly) without out staring at her to move. If she doesn't move gently use the house line (lead) to encourage her to move. Hopefully if the treats are tasty enough she will move easily. Once she has moved toss her another treat (gently toss it near her, don't lean in to feed her by hand).
Another exercise that would be good to do is to have lots of little treats, be in the middle of an open room (no clutter, lots of room for her to move away if she wants), sit sideways to her and call her to you, using a happy voice, but nothing to excitable or dull. If she looks your way or comes closer tell her she's a clever girl, look away and drop a treat to the side of you that is closest to her. Once she takes the treat, calmly tell her she's good and toss one a few feet away so she has to walk off to get it and repeat. Don't touch her or stare at her.
Once she is great at that we know she doesn't think you are a threat, she might be fine the first time, but do it a few times a day for a week or two then we know she has gained some confidence and trust that she isn't going to be forced to do things.
Next I would work on touch, lots of treats, still in the open room, this time touch her in her favourite place. My dog loves his back being scratched, or his chest. Give her a treat. Move somewhere near this preferred area and give her a treat. You are going to slowly work over time to get her to accept one hand anywhere on her body, go at her pace. If she backs off, bites, growls, freezes or cowers you have gone too far too fast, back up and try again starting at her favourite place. This may take days or weeks. Then two hands, using the same method. Touch treat, touch treat. Then rubbing with one hand, then two. This is all about her learning that hands aren't scary, and with hands comes good things, treats and rubs.

As for visitors, for the time being keep her locked away in another room. I'd give her a kong or similar toy filled with yummy food to keep her occupied and calm and make it a positive experience. Once she is better around you and your family, you can work on having her near visitors using a dog gate, having her at one side and give her her kong before someone comes over. Have them completely ignore her. Once they have gone leave her in there for another 10 mins or so, we want her to think she just happens to be in there and it's a good place to be (kong/food). Let her out as long as she is relaxed and calm and pretend nothing ever happened.

If she has something she wants then you can't have it. Try swapping it for something else, so a pile of treats a few feet away, so she walks away from what you want back. Try to not get in the situation where you have to take things from her, bones should be fed separately. I'm not sure what else she is guarding but you need to decided can she keep it, or are we going to lure her away with something even better than what she has. Once she isn't as nervous and ready to bite you can work on a leave it command, for now I wouldn't go near her when she has something of value. I don't want anyone hovering over me or touching me while I'm eating my favourite ice cream, I'd be liable to telling you where to go too, and that's just what she is doing.

With the beds, if she can't get up and down by herself then I wouldn't let her up. It's too dangerous right now for anyone, never mind 12 year olds to be lifting her. It's not helping her and it's not helping them. Also once she has completed each exercise and is 100% with you, you can help your family do each one with her, so she can learn to trust you all again.

Last thing, I promise, all these treats will make her fat, make sure to give her a bit less food at meal times and lots of exercise to counteract the extra calories. While my dog was doing lots of training he didn't eat out of a bowl, he was very food orientated and I just used his normal food but put it in a bag with some cheese and cut up hot dogs so they smelt extra yummy.
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Dibbythedog
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31-01-2015, 07:38 PM
Cadiann, well done for sticking by your little dog. She does sound scared and confused and I hope you will follow Sarah Jades excellent advice. I'm sure you will see improvement in her behaviour if you do.
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Cadiann731
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Location: Texas, US
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01-02-2015, 05:12 AM
Originally Posted by Timber- View Post
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Originally Posted by SarahJade View Post
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Originally Posted by Dibbythedog View Post
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Thank you everyone for your help! None of it was offensive at all. I will definitely start working on the things you mentioned with her, and also do them with our puppy too. Thanks again.
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trinden
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02-02-2015, 03:27 PM
This dog is trying to show your guests who is boss, and she thinks it is her.

Try having her on a lead when the guests arrive, that way you can show her you are the pack leader, and control her. If she barks, gently tug once on the lead and say no. Make her sit when they walk past her. If she tries to nip, gently tug on the lead and say no, and make her stay and sit. The same with the barking, show her that it is not necessary, and don't get frustrated, as she will feed off this energy.

You need to be calm and assertive, as this is the only way that will work.

If you do this regularly, before long, you won't need the lead, and the simple command of sit and stay will work.

Here are two other things you can try

Every time the dog barks or nips at someone, spray him in the face with water.Firmly say "NO" to the dog. Do not shout, just say the word firmly. If this doesn't work for you; try putting a penny or two in a coke can and tape over the opening with a strong tape (like strapping tape, or masking tape, or electrical tape). Every time the dog barks or nips shake the can at him and again firmly say "NO!" as you shake the can. It may take a few weeks for him to completely break the habit, but eventually he will make the connection.

Just remember, you are the pack leader not her, and everything will work out.
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chlosmum
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02-02-2015, 05:31 PM
Excellent advice from Timber and SarahJade. As SarahJade has said your little dog is scared and confused which is why she's behaving the way she does.

But please don't use either a spray bottle of a can with stones, in it to try and correct her behaviour. To do so would only make her more frightened and wary of you than she already is.

Your main objective is to restore her confidence and trust in you as outlined by SarahJade. Good luck!
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