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Location: UK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,497
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Hi again
Startle factor.
It's such a mild sensation that it's the cotinuose nature of it that works, there isn't a startle reaction at the lowest level the dog feels. often when finding this level you will have to hold the button for 2/3 secs to see if the dog feels it or not. Once you know the level and do some training the dog realises what the sensation is about and while not startled by it registers it straight away.
Wilbar
Wth the predatory approach you work at such a big distace you have the dog calm, as an example sheep in pen at one end of fieeld, handler and dg casually walking at other end of field. If the dog is reacting to the sheep in a predatory way you invrease the distance until he isn't then begin.
With scenthounds and other dogs that track prey you can use the scent of the animal as a starting point. Usually a handful of wool on a piece of stick will do.
Of course just being on a walk will up the dogs emotional state, what's important is teaching the dog to be responsive to commands or none predatory in this state.
CAD
I'm not surprised, I've no website, nor am I registered with any organisation (I don't see the point) most of my clients are word of mouth referrals or from advertiseing in petshops vets ect.
Misflyn
I don't compete with my dogs nor have I ever suggested I train working or competition dogs for my clients.
Mine and my clients dogs are pets.
My training emphaisis is on reliable control around distractions and practical obedience. I'm not fussed if my dog sits straight or crooked as long as he sits.
I think it's better to have a few 100% commands than lots of 80% or 90% commands. Nothing against ob trainers though or aglity or anything else. I do a little fun aglity with my younger dogs.
Training wise my dogs know the basics and are reliable, they also know a few other things that are practical to me/them but are beyond the basics. They also know a few tricks.
CAD
E collars are but a small part of my training. I use a wide range of methods. My top three are utilising toys (mostly tug toys as this very motivational) clicker (for the accuracy and the tendancy to improve an owners timing and make them look for what they want to happen so they can click or praise) and using gentle guidance to show the dog what I want, they can be used on their own or together.
I do occasionally use other aversives than e collars, any type of physical restraint will employ an element of aversive. I favour well structured sound aversion were appropriate (Discs) and occasionally use lead corrections or verbal reprimands. With these aversives I favour the only do it once but make a big impression as their basically punishment. E collars give you the flexiblaty to use aversives very mildly and as negative reinforcement.
Most importantly I put alot of emphasis on the dog owner relationship. I'm not interested in the totaly dominance approach of some old school trainers, more in encouraging co operation as a team or partnership.
Re the shep, the owner and previouse trainers had tried a huge range of methods to correct the pulling. Including
. Penalty yrds, walking backwards, and about turns.
. Stand still and wait
. Clicker, lure and reward and targeting, mixed into the above methods.
. Evey bit of gear you can imagine.
. The old farmer method of swiging a stick in front of the dog as the woman walked, she actually needed the stick to walk and the dog went sideways instead.
None of these had worked. The dog was booked into a rehoming place for when a space became available. Fortunately she didn't need it.
Adam